Its coming

Early spring excites
More than nature's need to grow
Eyes that take in sight
Redolence perfumed glow
Fantasies - readied; set; go

















Wild Mushroom Strudel - yields 6 to 8 servings
2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms such as shiitakes, oysters, hen of the woods
1/4 cup dried morel mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 shallots - sliced thin
2 garlic cloves - diced
1/4-cup brandy
1/4 cup pine nuts - lightly toasted; roughly chopped
1/2 cup Italian parsley - leaves only, chopped
1/8 cup thyme - leaves only, chopped
Salt and pepper
1/4-pound Phyllo dough - at room temperature
1/2-pound butter - melted

Clean the mushrooms with a damp kitchen towel and roughly chop them.

In a fine mesh colander rinse the morels under running water to rid them of any dirt and grit. Soak the morels in 1/2 cup of boiling water for 30 minutes. Roughly chop the morels and reserve its soaking liquid.

Heat a 10-inchsauté pan to hot and add the olive oil. Sauté the shallots until lightly golden and then add the garlic and, the fresh mushrooms and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Add the brandy and morels along with the mushroom liquid. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the liquid has evaporated. Mix in the pine nuts, herbs and season with salt and pepper. Cool the mushroom mixture.

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Lay a sheet of phyllo out flat and using a pastry brush lightly paint the sheet with the melted butter. Always start brushing the phyllo with melted butter from the outer edges working your way inward as the phyllo starts to dry on the outer fringes first. Place an additional 5 sheets on top of this first one buttering each layer. You must hold the phyllo you are not working with spread out flat under a damp kitchen towel in order to prevent it from drying out. Spread half of the mushroom mixture along the length of the bottom third of the phyllo. Then carefully roll up the phyllo over the mushroom mixture and continue to roll the mixture completely up into a tight log. Once you have rolled the strudel half way you will have edges that you should fold in just like if you where wrapping a gift, and then continue to roll the strudel completely up. Transfer to a parchment lined baking tray. Cut three to four slashes in the top of strudel. These cuts allow steam to escape and helps prevent the strudel from bursting. Lightly brush the phyllo with some melted butter. Repeat this with the remaining mushroom mixture. Place the strudels in the oven and baked for 15 minutes or until golden and crisp. Slice the strudel on an angle while warm and serve.

Holding tight

I am counting. We have had a full week where the daytime temperatures have hovered in the 40’s and 50’s. Nights have not even kissed the freezing mark. Precipitation has fallen from the sky, not in light crystallized shapes, but heavy droplets of water. Green tender shoots are cropping up around the base of trees, and a crocus or two have been spotted. The time of renewal is imminent.

I figure I have about four weeks or so before my market starts receiving the first signs that spring has sprung – ramps, fiddlehead ferns. Though I did spy sad, limp, unfurling coils of fiddleheads in a “high-end” produce market this past week. I surely hope that the buyers of such a pathetic representation of spring’s potential will not be so put off that they won’t succumb to its true season. For me, a sideward glance is all they could get from me.

So, I am still cooking from my stores well on schedule to run down by the end of the month. The back of my freezer is now clearly visible; shelves in the refrigerator are available once again, and jars of fragrant salts are emptying out. I anticipate in the coming months arguments about my obsession with putting up enough inventory to feed the building, but for now, I am basking in the bounty of potential always keen to trap that exuberance.




Corn and Seafood Chowder – yields 4 to 6 servings
5-cups corn (frozen or fresh)
2- cups chicken stock
1-tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion
4-celery stalks - roughly chopped
1 Anaheim pepper – seeds discarded; cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2-teaspons fresh thyme leaves
4 heads roasted garlic
1 red pepper – seeds discarded; cut into 1/2-inched pieces
1/2-pound fingerling potatoes – cut in thirds
1/2-can canned tomatoes
1/4-pound turnip – peeled; cut into 1/4-inch pieces
Pinch of saffron
1 zucchini – cut into 1/4-inch pieces
4-scallions – sliced
1/2-pound cleaned shrimp
1/2-pound cockles
1/2-pound halibut – cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a blender add 3-cups of the corn and the chicken stock, and blend until smooth. Hold to the side.

Remove the garlic cloves from the skins of the roasted garlic, and reserve.




In a 4-quart pot add the oil, onions, celery and Anaheim pepper and cook over a high flame until wilted and lightly browned. Then mix in the thyme, garlic, red pepper, canned tomato and turnip. Mix to thoroughly combine and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook for 45 minutes.

After 45 minutes add the saffron, zucchini and remaining 2-cups of corn as well as some salt and pepper. Cook another five minutes then mix in the scallions, shrimp, cockles, and halibut. Cook 5 to 10 minutes longer. Correct seasoning and serve.

A moment of change

Every season has an arc. Those initial days when we receive a gentle nudging from nature that something is in the air -- we find ourselves frolicking in the nascent awakening of a change, which eventually transits, into familiarity and at times boredom of the expected. As the cycle continues we are presented a burst of energy and excitement heralding the change that has come. The embracing of tomorrow full of promise and hope tastes bittersweet as a twinge of sadness fills the good-bye.

With an eye on yesterday and foot into tomorrow we must navigate this emotional rollercoaster, and not forget that the succession is ours to witness – ours to harness – ours to cherish.

As this evolution unfolds it is our responsibility to be present ready to store the memories, experiences and ideas that every season so generously offers and secure them somewhere safe.

Tomorrow’s dawn may ask for some of that knowledge.



















Caramelized Banana Upside-down Cake - yields 8-1/2x8-1/2 cakes
3 bananas – peeled, and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1/4-cup freshly squeezed orange or tangerine juice
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
1-1/2 cups sugar
2-cups all-purpose flour
2-teaspoons baking powder
1/4-teaspoon salt
6 egg whites
1/2-cup mascarpone cheese
2-teaspoons orange blossom water

Lay the sliced bananas down in an 8-1/2x8-1/2 inch cake pan.

In a 1-quart saucepan add the 1/2-cup sugar and 1/4-cup orange juice. Bring to the boil, and cook the sugar until an amber hue. Immediately drizzle the caramelized sugar over the bananas.

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar until very light in color and fluffy. In a separate bowl sift together the flour, baking powder and salt.

Whisk the whites, mascarpone and orange blossom water together to completely combine.

To the butter mixture add a third of the flour, and mix to combine. Then add a third of the egg mixture to combine. Continue to add the remaining ingredients ending with the flour. Pour the batter evenly over the bananas, and then place in the oven. Cook for 30 to 35 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.

Remove to a cooling rack, and rest the cake for 5 minutes. Turn the cake out of the pan onto a plate, and allow the cake to cool completely.

Just relax

How have I gotten so fortunate? A dinner party tonight, and I am responsible for nothing! It has been so many years that I have been a chef, and but a few friends invite me over without the un-welcomed question, “how did I do?”

Now, I find myself living with someone who is interested in taking control and expressing themselves. Oh sure, there are the struggles over who knows best but when it comes to the kitchen I know I know best. Granted, I tend to stay clear of the kitchen to avoid giving advice, obsessively cleaning, cringing at the lack of knife skills. I am learning to let go, and enjoy the expression of love. Of course, the downside is I now have to do the dishes.

Since I didn’t have to spend the afternoon shopping and prepping I actually felt free to play. So, while the kitchen was empty I ran in and baked….an activity I will indulge, but I would never want to spend my days doing. My icing technique never developed much beyond “homey.”

My intention was to whip up a little dessert I have been holding on the tip of my tongue, and help take some of the stress off my boyfriend’s to-do list. And, the truth-be-told I have been curious to see how coconut milk would work as a replacement for milk in a white cake recipe I love. Or, was it a hidden desire to wrestle control back? No, I am happy to be a guest, and offer a host gift – all right maybe in my mind I might be having a tough time letting go of the meal.




Floral Coconut Cake – yields 8-inch cake (4-layers)
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4-teaspoon salt
6 egg whites
3/4-cup coconut milk
1-teaspoon rose water

Pre heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Butter and lightly flour two 8-inch cake pans.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar until very light in color and fluffy. In a separate bowl sift together the flour, baking powder and salt.

Whisk the whites, milk and rose water together to completely combine.

To the butter mixture add a third of the flour, and mix to combine. Then add a third of the coconut milk mixture to combine. Continue to add the remaining ingredients ending with the flour. Divide the cake batter between the two cake pans, and then place in the oven. Cook for 25 to 30 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the middle comes out clean.
Remove to a cooling rack, and rest the cakes for 5 minutes. Turn the cakes out of their pans onto the cooling rack, and allow the cakes to cool completely.







Guava Coconut filling:
8 ounces guava paste
1-cup coconut milk
2-egg yolks

In the microwave oven warm the guava paste for 60 seconds. Transfer the guava paste to a 1-1/2 quart saucepan, and add the coconut milk. Over a medium flame stir the guava and coconut milk with a small whisk until the guava is completely dissolved.

In a small work bowl whisk the egg yolks, and then add about a 1/4-cup of the warm guava mixture. Return the egg yolks to the warm guava mixture, and lower the heat to low. With a rubber spatula stir the mixture, constantly, for 10 to 15 minutes. Do not let the mixture boil. Once the mixture has thickened slightly transfer the guava mixture to a small bowl and refrigerate.

Carefully cut each cake into half to create four layers.

Spread a third of the cooled guava mixture on the bottom layer. Continue with the remaining layers. Crumb coat (a thin layer of icing) the over the cake, and refrigerate in order to set this initial icing. Once the cake has chilled icing the cake completely with the buttercream. Refrigerate for 30 to 60 minutes to set the icing (any leftover buttercream can be successfully frozen for up to a few months).

Rose scented Italian Buttercream – yields approx. 2 1/2 cups
2 cups sugar
2/3-cup water
6 egg whites
10 ounces (2-1/2 sticks) sweet butter – at room temperature
2-teaspoons rosewater

In a 2-quart saucepan combine the sugar and water, and place over a medium flame. Gently stir the sugar to dissolve in the water. Allow the sugar to come to the boil, and then lower the flame to a medium low. Cook the sugar for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the bubbles that form rise and pop slowly.

Start beating the egg whites in a standing mixer fitted with the whisk. Once the whites reach a stiff peak lower the speed, and very slowly pour in the hot sugar mixture. Increase the speed of the mixture and continue to beat the egg whites until they are cooled completely, about 10 to 15 minutes. Then start dropping in the butter, about a tablespoon at a time, until all the butter has been added. Mix in the rosewater and beat for 5 minutes longer. Refrigerate for 15 minutes to set before spreading onto a completely cooled cake.

Taking Responsibility

It seems to me one of the on-going buzzes is the battle this country has with bulge. Michelle Obama’s initiative to tackle child obesity will help keep this serious abuse of food front and center. Now, there are many institutional changes that need to take place: the re-evaluation of the foods we feed children in school; the subsidy the corn growers get making high fructose corn syrup so cheap and easy to use, and the lack of national support for local agri-business to get to market and compete with behemoth food distributors.

So, until there is real action (and jaded as I am, I don’t see our congress doing much) it is up to us, the individual, to start making choices that will hopefully effect change.

As a consumer, I long ago took responsibility for the items I bought. There are very few commercially canned products I will rely upon and definitely not a single pre-package meal that will make it to my table. Yes, I can shop as needed given the access I have in the area I live – I am spoiled, by choice. We need to take some extra time to plan – plain beans have the ability to be incarnated into multiple meals; quinoa is a terrific grain that cooks in 15 minutes, and fresh or frozen vegetables are an easy go to.

Personally, a mid-week dinner never takes me more than 30 minutes – be it a quick sauté or a stew that I then allow to simmer pretty much free of constant baby-sitting. Though you need to feel the joy and pleasure of feeding and being fed. The kitchen needs to become your sandbox, and cooking the child-like glee found when making a mud-pie.

Let us not despair to deeply and continue to believe that some change will come, but until that time lets visit the farmer’s market…eat an apple instead of a flip-top serving of apple sauce, or that a happy meal is pleasing no one but the shareholder.



Garlic Broccoli – yields 4 servings
3 garlic cloves – sliced thinly
3-tablespoons olive oil
2 chilies de Arbol (or any other dried whole chili)
1-1/2-pounds broccoli
1/4-cup Kalamata olives
4-scallions – white portion only
Salt and pepper to taste

Heat a wok or cast iron skillet over a high heat, and add the garlic and oil. Cook the garlic until it starts to brown.








Then mix in the chilies, broccoli, olives and scallions, and 2-tablespoons of water. Season the broccoli with salt and pepper. Toss the broccoli mixture, and cook until the water has evaporated.

Serve immediately.

Red Stained Valentine

a tangle of limbs
enthralled, enamored, embraced
how to say… LOVE YOU



Love Potion 214 – yields approx. 4 cocktails
2 cups blood orange juice (from approximately 6)
1/4-cup pomegranate syrup
4 whole clove
1/4-cup dried Rose petals
2 tablespoons dried hibiscus flowers
1-teaspoon whole fennel seed
1/2-inch slice fresh ginger root
1/2-cup sugar
1-cup vodka

Place the clove, rose petals, hibiscus, fennel seed and ginger root in a 1-1/2 quart saucepan and pour over the blood orange juice, pomegranate syrup, sugar and 1-1/2 cup water. Over a medium heat warm the mixture for 20 minutes covered with a tight fitting lid. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to steep for 15 minutes. Then pass the ingredients through a fine sieve. Cool the infused orange juice mixture completely.

Fill a martini shaker with ice and pour over 1/2-cup of the blood orange mixture and 1/4-cup of vodka. Place the lid on it and shake. Pour into martini glass and serve straight up.

SNOW DAY!!

Grey, bleak ominous

dusting turned sideways – whiteout

to the stove to simmer














Chickpea and Chorizo Stew – serves 6
1-pound chorizo sausage – cut into 1/2” pieces
2-ounces sliced pancetta
2-large onions – sliced
1 head of garlic – roughly chopped
2-carrots – peeled and cut into 1/2” pieces
4-celery stalks – cut into 1/2” pieces
1/2-teaspoon whole cumin seed
1-quart chicken stock
1-pint cherry tomatoes
1-can chickpeas (13.5 ounces)
1-cup frozen corn
1/4-cup chopped cilantro
1-lemon – cut into 6’s
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Over a medium heat, in a 4-quart pot, add the chorizo and cook to brown. Remove from the pot, and hold in a work bowl.

Add the pancetta to the pot and cook until it starts to crisp then mix in the onions. Cook the onions until they have wilted down to about a 1/3 of its original volume. You will want to stir the onions frequently in order to prevent them from burning.





Into the onions mix in the garlic, carrots, celery, cumin and reserved chorizo, and allow it to cook for 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and seasonal with black pepper. Bring the stock to the boil, and then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer the stew for 30 to 45 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, chickpeas and corn. Continue to cook for an additional half hour. Stir the cilantro and correct seasoning. Serve with a lemon wedge.