Without the blazing rays
of sun beating down on the garden for 8-plus hours a day my herbs, those that
are still awake, are less than dynamic. By this time of year I am so bored by
the lack of explosion of the herbaceous bundles in the market I have no choice
by to rely on the spices I hoard. Yes, I have pestos in the freezer but they
don’t always satisfy my needs. Next to those containers of pureed basil, mint,
hyssop and mixed herbs is a gallon-sized plastic bag stuffed with smaller
plastic bags filled with seeds, bark and buds of the spices I always have on
hand. I keep my spices in this space more usually crowded with pints ice cream,
containers of chicken soup and trays of cubes.
Heat and light release
fragrance, and spices are all about their aromatic offering, so why store them
in glass jars, perfectly aligned, in the warmest room of the house. For me
spices stored in a more traditional manner tends to be dead with six months
where as those kept in the dark, chill of the freezer gives olfactory
stimulation for years – and of course, I buy them in their whole form and grind
as needed.
This was the case the
other night when I was in the mood to play – grab some of this; throw in a bit
of that. However, the garden has dwindled down to broccoli leaves, kale and
Swiss chard, and the herbs that are not dominant are making me yawn. In the
market the basil is feeble and the tarragon gives just a hint of anise. My
foods will not be dulled, so I just laid out my many little packets, and
started to concoct. Seeing the yet to be open dried rose petals I had my moment
of inspiration. The head of North Africa filled my nose, and dinner started to
take form. This cuisine uses a blend of floral, spicy and earthy notes to bring
their dishes to fruition – and since I have no cultural attachment to that part
of the world I feel no compulsion about getting the feeling correct without
worrying if I am following Grandma’s recipe exactly.
The blending of spices and
herbs is alchemistic for me, and can immediately transport you into a whole
other realm, but you need to be armed with more then the typical cumin,
paparika, nutmeg and cinnamon. Expand the repertoire dare yourself with black cardamom,
white poppy or annatto seeds, and see what happens. Of course, when the warmth
of the sun returns always buy an herb you have never used before – granted, you
should like the way it smells.
Moroccan inspired
Roast Lamb – yields 4 to 6
1/2-teaspoon whole
black peppercorns
5 cardamom pods
4 clove spikes
2-tablespoons dried
rose petals
1-teaspoon lavender
buds
1-teaspoon
fenugreek
2-inch cinnamon
stick (broken up)
½-teaspoon anise
seed
1-tablespoon
coriander seed
1-tablespoon
turmeric
¼-cup fresh lime
juice
½-cup fresh orange
juice
3-pounds lamb thigh
– bone-in
1-large onion –
thickly sliced
1-cup roughly
chopped dried apricots
2- dried Asian
chilies – minced
½-teaspoon salt
In a spice grinder place
the black peppercorns, cardamom, cloves, rose petals, lavender, fenugreek,
cinnamon, anise, coriander and turmeric blending until all is broken down.
In a small work
bowl mix the lime and orange juice with the spice mix. Rub the spice mixture
over the lamb, and then warp it tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for
2-days.
Remove from the
lamb refrigerate about an hour prior to cooking, and let it sit on the kitchen
counter.
Pre-heat the oven
to 475-degrees.
Place the onions,
apricots, chilies and lamb in a small roasting pan. Season the lamb with salt.
Pour one cup of water into the pan. Place the lamb into the oven, and
immediately lower the temperature to 325-degrees.
After about an hour and half
cover the lamb, and add about ½-cup of additional water.
Cook for the lamb for another 1-1/2 to 2 hours.
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