Food on the Move

Over five hundred years ago, an Italian named Christopher Columbus sailed west for the Spanish crown in search of a water route to the spice center of the then known world. The commodities he sought clove, mace and nutmeg were the highly prized aromatic treasures that came from the small islands of Ternate, Tidore, Ambon, and Banda Neira (The Spice Islands). Along with peppercorns from the Malabar Coast of India, these exotic spices prompted the European Age of Discovery and formed the backbone of the medieval western economy. The Portuguese, Spanish, and later, the Dutch and English found their way to the sparkling waters off the Moluccan archipelago.

Stretching overland from China to Africa, the Spice Trail was an ancient trading route, originally a caravan trail, which served to introduce more than just spices to the lands it traversed. It also carried oranges and peaches from China; bananas and ginger from Southeast Asia; rice and sugar cane from India; saffron and melon from Persia; cumin and coffee from Africa; coriander and olives from the Mediterranean basin. Over the years, these tastes converged with each other forever transforming world cuisine.

The discovery of the New World sprang upon us a whole new cornucopia of culinary offerings to revel in. America is the ultimate immigrant society, though prior to the establishment of the United States, food products were the first foreigners to cross boarders, set up shop and be assimilated into another culinary culture. Can we take the tomato away from the Italians; hot chilies from the Thai; chocolate from the Swiss; the potato from the Irish, or heaven forbid vanilla from the world’s ice cream supply? Yes, we all have a long and rich history of sharing from our pantries, and need look no further than our own kitchens to notice the effect of this cross-pollination on local foods.



Grilled Shrimp and Scallops marinated in Tequila and Cinnamon - yields 4 servings

1/2 cup orange juice
1 lime - juiced
2 garlic cloves – crushed to a paste
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 to 2 shots tequila
2 star anise
1/8 cup canola oil
32 shrimp - cleaned and de-veined
1/2 pound scallops
8" bamboo skewers

Mix the orange juice, limejuice, garlic, cinnamon, tequila, star anise and canola oil together well. Toss over the shrimp and scallops to thoroughly coat and refrigerate for no more than 3 hours. Submerge 8 bamboo skewers in water, and let them sit for a few hours or overnight. This will prevent the skewers from burning too quickly when cooking the shrimp skewers. Place four shrimp and scallops per skewer, and over a hot grilled cook the skewers for 5 minutes on one side than another 3 minutes on the other.

Serve hot or at room temperature.


Star Fruit and Jicama Salad - serves 6

2 star fruit
1 pound jicama - peeled
2 bunch arugula- washed and chopped
3-tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2-teaspoon cumin seed - ground
1/2-cup canola oil
salt and pepper to taste

Slice the star fruit into 1/4 inch thick rounds, and the jicama into 1/4 inch thick julienne. Then toss with the cumin and vinegar. Just prior to serving add the arugula, oil and salt pepper to the star fruit and jicama. Toss well and serve immediately.

In the Pantry

What do you stock in the pantry? Are there essentials that one cannot just do without? Well yes and no. Firstly, and most importantly, it is a matter of taste and the flavors you like to work with. Though for me there are musts for my kitchen. I want to make sure that I can give my meal the Latin, Asian or Mediterranean characters I enjoy.

To keep my spices fresh and as pungent as possible I store them in my freezer. Heat and light are the killers of flavors so at a minimum keep you spices in a dark container away from the stove. I also buy them whole as grind them as I need them – this way they stay as aromatic for as long as possible. Buy an inexpensive coffee grinder and dedicate to your spices.

It is best to store any nut oils such as the sesame, walnut and the like in the refrigerator. They tend to go rancid quickly. While this is not toxic it is unpleasant on the tongue. Olive and canola has about a six-month shelf life though during the hot months I move them into the refrigerator too. Don’t worry if they thickened when chilled just let them sit at room temperature for five minutes and they will liquefy once again.

This guideline is really all about ensuring that you have within reach the basics you’ll need/want to work with when cooking.


Here is my always on-hand items:
Good quality olive oil
Canola oil
Toasted sesame seed oil
Soy sauce
Red wine vinegar
Rice wine vinegar
Sherry vinegar
Thai fish sauce
Basmati rice
Dried pasta
Canned beans
Almonds
Pine nuts
Dijon-style mustard
Worcestershire sauce
Kecap manis
Sun dried Tomatoes
Canned whole tomato
Coconut milk
Whole black pepper
All-purpose flour
Vanilla beans or extract
Semi-sweet chocolate
White chocolate
Baking soda
Brown sugar
Palm sugar
Sea salt
Kosher salt
Cumin Whole
Coriander
Cinnamon
Turmeric
Clove
Star anise
Whole nutmeg
Dried chilies
Hot chili sauce

Avocados

I have to admit that after the olive the avocado is m favorite fruit. Yes, I said fruit. From a botanical classification this is a fruit for it has a seed surrounded by a flesh protected by a skin. We just think of it as a vegetable because we tend to only use it in savory applications. There are two main varieties in the United States the Haas and Fuerte. The former has a brownish/red skin that is rough and is eggish is shape coming from the west coast into South America. The Fuerte is a Floridian/Caribbean variety that is more oblong with a green smooth skin. The Hass variety is higher in fat and is less fiberous than its southeastern cousin.

When ripe the avocado should have a gentle give when squeezed. If it is hard let the avocado ripen on the counter - once it has ripened and you are not ready to use it you can refrigerate it. Never refrigerate an un-ripened one for it will never ripen for you. Also, the avocado does not take well to being heated. If I am ever to cook with an avocado it goes in at the very end just prior to serving. Too much exposure to heat and the sweetest avocadoes goes bitter...been there, done that.

Avocado Salsa - yields 2 cups

2 ripe avocados
2 plum tomatoes - seeds removed
4 scallions - chopped
1 jalapeno - diced, seeds removed to lower heat
1 small red onion - diced fine
1 lime - juiced
1/4-cup cilantro - leaves only; roughly chopped
1-teaspoon - ground coriander seed
1/2-teaspoon ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Carefully cut the avocado in half to remove the skin and seed from the avocado. Dice the avocado. Dice the tomatoes, and gently toss all ingredients together. Refrigerate 30 minutes before using.

Minted Avocado Mousse - yields 8 servings

3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 cups cream
6 mint stems - leaves reserved for garnish
3 large avocados - ripened
1 lime - juiced
1 1/2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
5 ounces semi-sweet chocolate - chopped up
1 teaspoon canola oil

In a sauce pan gently warm the cream, sugar and mint over a low heat for about 5 minutes, or until the sugar is dissolved. Strain the cream mixture, and let it cool. Place the lime juice in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a plastic blade or use a cake mixer with a whip attachment. Ad the avocado and process till very smooth. Add the cream to the avocado and blend till well incorporated. Dissolve the gelatin in1/4 cup of hot water. Mix into add to the avocado mixture, and incorporate thoroughly.

With a paper towel moistened with some oil, lightly grease a Charlotte mold, or use a bunt pan dish, and pour in the mousse mixture. Tap the mold lightly on the container to dislodge any air bubbles, and refrigerate 6 hours or overnight. To un-mold the mousse place in a pan of warm water for no more than a minute or two. Wipe the mold dry. Place your serving
dish on top of the mold, and turn it out. Tap on the mold to ensure the entire mousse releases at the same time. Once you have un-molded the mousse place it back in the refrigerator for a half hour to an hour to firm it back up.

To make the chocolate glaze place the chocolate and remaining oil in a stainless steel bowl, and melt completely over a double boiler. Alternatively, the chocolate can be melted in the microwave oven, just use a non-metallic bowl and heat for approximately 1 minute. Make sure the oil and chocolate is well combined, and let it cool for a few minutes. Drizzle the chocolate over the mousse.

Avocado Ice Cream – yields approx. 4 quarts

1-quart cream
1-quart whole milk
6 egg yolks
12 ounces chopped white chocolate
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 ripe avocadoes

In a 4-quart sauce pan bring the cream and milk to just below a boil over a medium heat. In the meanwhile, in a clean bowl whisk the egg yolks until they are pale yellow, and thickened. Slowly, add small amounts of the hot cream mixture to the eggs – whisking constantly and being careful not to scramble the eggs. Once the eggs are hot add the eggs to the remaining cream, and over a low flame stir the cream/eggs until just slightly thickened along with the white chocolate. Be sure to stir in the corners of the pot as some of the chocolate will stick to there.

Pour the cream mixture through a fine sieve into a clean container, and fully chill the mixture.

In a blender place the orange juice, vanilla and avocado. Puree the avocado to very smooth. Whisk the avocado mixture into the fully chilled cream to thoroughly distribute.
Place the cream mixture into an ice cream maker, and proceed according to manufactures directions.

Bali High

The flavors of Southeast Asia are explosive: big sweet, sour, salt, bitter and heat. Yet the collection is more restrained than its individual components would lead you to think. That sugary note is not just a saccharine lick but thickened by the use of palm sugar. The iconic pucker of a lemon or a lime is diffused by the aromatic assault of lemon grass and kefir lime leaves. Salt helps round up this herd of tastes on your tongue and acts wrangler keeping everything in place. All I can say about bitter is that it is cultural, and for those of us who did not meet a bitter melon until late in life we just have to slowly warm up to it. Finally, heat that fiery end to a bite that at times seems never to fade fast enough is really our reaction to pain receptors being stimulated at the back of throat. We have all been in relationships that were wrong, and yet we suffered through – chilies while, for me, are a great tasting spot for us is a relationship that you just have to grin and bear it. Though if a dish is too intense don’t go the water or beer. Have something dairy based – it will help extinguish the fire.




Spicy Roasted Chicken - yields 4 servings

1/3 cup soy sauce
3/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 medium onion - roughly chopped
5 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon black mustard seeds
4 star anise - ground
1 teaspoon ground clove
1 to 2 hot chili peppers
1 can coconut milk
3 pound chicken pieces

In a blender add the soy sauce, lemon juice, onion, garlic and fish sauce and process until very smooth. Then add in the black pepper, mustard seeds, mace, star anise, sambal, and coconut milk and process to combine well. Pour the mixture over the chicken pieces and let it marinate 30 minutes to overnight in the refrigerator.

Roast the chicken in a 375 degree oven for 25 to 30 minutes. Or alternatively, grill the chicken pieces over a very hot grill for 20 minutes turning the pieces frequently.

Asian Inspired Sauce - yields approx. 1 cup

1 shallot – peeled and sliced very thinly
2 red small Thai chilies – sliced very thinly
1/4-cup Thai fish sauce
1/4-cup rice wine vinegar
1/4-cup fresh limejuice
1-inch piece ginger – peeled and sliced very fine julienne
1-tablespoon palm or light brown sugar

In a bowl mix all the ingredients together, and let it sit for 1 hour to a day (in the refrigerator) to allow the flavors to combine together.

Mango Salad - yields 6 servings

3 mangoes - under-ripe
2 red Asian chilies - finely diced
2 teaspoon salt
1 small red onion
1/8 cup chopped mint leaves
1 lime

Peel the mangoes, and then carefully remove the flesh from the pit. It is easiest to remove two large segments from either side of the pit. Mangoes have a huge pit that can be about half of the fruit. The pit becomes the cook’s treat.

Slice the mango flesh into thin strips and arrange them on a platter just slightly overlapping them. Distribute the salt and chilies over the mangoes. Slice the red onion into very thin julienne and sprinkle over the mangoes. Juice the lime over the fruit and let sit 1 hour before serving. Sprinkle with mint just prior to serving.

Going Bananas

Sometimes you walk into the kitchen and you're just bored. Staring at the open refrigerator door or peering into the cupboard hoping something will pop out and say, play with me! These are the days when my slightly more outrageous ideas are born.

It was during that culinary ebb, that is late winter and early spring, when desparation grabbed hold of me. This time of year is a culinary wasteland when nothing is peaking and I tend to succumb to a meal of rice and beans and perhaps frozen spinach. I guess I was particularly ornery on that day, and just was not feeling my typical stand-bys. What I had on my counter were some plantains just starting to ripen. So, I was off. I started manipulating plantains and its close relative bananas.

Green and yellow plantains should be used in a savory application as the sugars in them have not yet developed. Though if you wish to ripen them place them in a bowl with an apple. The apple gives off a gas called, ethelyne, that facilitates the ripening process. Conversely, take your regular bananas and don't let them sit amongst your fruits to prevent them from browning too quickly.



Sautéed and Stewed Plantains - yields 6 to 8 servings

5 green plantains - under-ripe bananas can be substituted
1/2 cup canola Oil
2 tablespoon Sesame Oil
1 habenero chili - seeds removed and diced
4 cans diced tomatoes
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg
Salt and black pepper to taste

Cut a slit down two side of the plantains, and place the plantains in a bowl of cold water to soak for a half hour. This helps to remove the skin of the green plantains. Peel the plantains, and slice on the angle into 1/4" pieces. In a large sauté pan heat the oil, and fry the plantains in a single layer until golden or both sides. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Smash the fried plantain with the bottom of a small sauté pan or mallet to flatten.

In a 2 quart sauce pan add the sesame oil, chilies, cinnamon, nutmeg and black pepper and cook for a minute. Be very careful not to let the spices burn. Immediately, pour the in the tomatoes, a 1 cup of water and plantains, and cook over a medium low heat covered for about 30 minutes. Watch the plantain as they may need some additional water depending on how dry they were. Correct seasoning and serve immediately.

Grilled Green Bananas - serves 6

3 under ripe bananas
3 teaspoons white vinegar
3 tablespoons curry powder
3 tablespoons sesame oil

Mix the vinegar, curry powder and oil together. Carefully peel the bananas down leaving the skin still attached at the base. Rub each banana with the curry paste, then carefully fold up the banana peel. Heat a grill pan to very hot, and cook the bananas about 10 minutes turning to blacken all sides. Serve hot.


Banana Pudding - yields approx 8 servings

1 can coconut
3 very ripe bananas - peeled and diced
1 pound firm tofu
1/4 cup honey
1 teaspoon orange zest
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

In a 2 cup sauce pan boil the coconut milk to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Let the coconut cook down by half. Then add the the bananas, and cook for five minutes.

Drain the tofu and place a food processor or blender along with the reduced coconut/bananas, honey, orange zest, cinnamon and vanilla. Process the mixture until very smooth. Pour the pudding into 10 cups (approx. 1/2 cup per serving). Refrigerate the pudding for 4 plus hours.

Serve with fresh berries.

In the moment......

Cooking seasonally means developing a keen eye and sensitive nose as you traverse the aisles of nature’s store. The trimmings of each season is color-coded – spring’s plate is drenched with verdant green leaves, tender stalks and gentle herbs; summer is resplendent with myriad reds, oranges and yellows creating texture and bold redolent assaults; autumn’s quieting is rich with umber root vegetables and a second hurrah of green leaves. This rainbow presentation is an initial starting point for setting a menu.

I discovered the excitement of the green market while living in Australia. Through my weekly jaunts to Sydney’s Paddy’s Market I connected with nature’s rhythm and reveled in the great unknown with each culinary discovery the seasons offered. One spring day - no it was autumn (I never did get use to the reverse of the seasons down-under) – I went to the market yearning for something new and ripe. I roamed the aisles in hopes of being seduced by something that would plicate my out-of-season timing. There, in a quiet corner away from the hustle and bustle, squeezed between crates of oranges and shining green peppers, stood a farmer with fresh knobs of turmeric, bundles of cilantro, rows of chilies and fussy okra adorning his table. While his labor bore beautiful, healthy produce it was an odd, inhospitable looking thing that intrigued me. It was the size of a softball; had a mottled reptilian skin and was very dense to the touch. I had found it – something new, something that piqued my creative craving.

Besides the many farmers markets found throughout the country there is another alternative to getting seasonal foods – joining a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture). These are local co-ops where you buy a share in the bounty of a local farmer, and get delivered a weekly largess of the land. Though don’t expect home delivery they are usually set-up in a central location in town. You will receive what is peaking that week, and only what the farmer grows. In this time, where food security is in question and how it is grown a relationship with the farmer seems like an answer to some of our needs to know where our foods come from.

The up side to belonging to a CSA is that you get fresh, flavorful, nutritious foods that is days from the earth. Not to mention encouraging and supporting local farming economies. The downside is that you will gorge on a selection of foods for a week or two at a time. Mother Nature does not allow everything to come to market at once…..

For further information go to: http://www.localharvest.org/csa/


Wild Mushroom Strudel - yields 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds assorted wild mushrooms such as shiitakes, oysters, hen of the woods
1/4 cup dried morel mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 shallots - sliced thin
2 garlic cloves - diced
1/4 cup brandy
1/4 cup pine nuts - lightly toasted; roughly chopped
1/2 cup Italian parsley - leaves only, chopped
1/8 cup thyme - leaves only, chopped
Salt and pepper
1/4 pound phyllo dough - at room temperature
1/2 pound Butter - melted

Clean the mushrooms with a damp kitchen towel and roughly chop them.

In a fine mesh colander rinse the morels under running water to rid them of any dirt and grit. Soak the morels in 1/2 cup of boiling water for 30 minutes. Roughly chop the morels and reserve its soaking liquid.

Heat a 10-inchsauté pan to hot and add the olive oil. Sauté the shallots until lightly golden and then add the garlic and, the fresh mushrooms and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Add the brandy and morels along with the mushroom liquid. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Cook until the liquid has evaporated. Mix in the pine nuts, herbs and season with salt and pepper. Cool the mushroom mixture.

Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees.

Lay a sheet of phyllo out flat and using a pastry brush lightly paint the sheet with the melted butter. Always start brushing the phyllo with melted butter from the outer edges working your way inward as the phyllo starts to dry on the outer fringes first. Place an additional 5 sheets on top of this first one buttering each layer. You must hold the phyllo you are not working with spread out flat under a damp kitchen towel in order to prevent it from drying out. Spread half of the mushroom mixture along the length of the bottom third of the phyllo. Then carefully roll up the phyllo over the mushroom mixture and continue to roll the mixture completely up into a tight log. Once you have rolled the strudel half way you will have edges that you should fold in just like if you where wrapping a gift, and then continue to roll the strudel completely up. Transfer to a parchment lined baking tray. Cut three to four slashes in the top of strudel. These cuts allow steam to escape and helps prevent the strudel from bursting. Lightly brush the phyllo with some melted butter. Repeat this with the remaining mushroom mixture. Place the strudels in the oven and baked for 15 minutes or until golden and crisp. Slice the strudel on an angle while warm and serve.

Who are we...?

As a chef who has traveled and lived extensively around the world, I have come to realize that I never cooked anything but “modern American cuisine.” I am a child of parents with eastern European backgrounds, so we feasted on kasha with egg noodles, braised brisket of beef and blintzes filled with sour cream and cherries. These were served primarily on holidays and special occasions. On the other hand, my mother’s daily offerings included the best spaghetti and meatballs on the block; macaroni and cheese that I still make when I need comforting, and a pineapple and clove baked ham that was lifted right off the pages of LADIES HOME JOURNAL.

There was a clear sensibility in the dishes of my cultural heritage. It included copious amounts of garlic, a slick sheen of fat lacing the roast, and onions crisped from frying in rendered chicken fat. Even though the foods my mother made daily were “American,” I came to think of our ethnic foods, served on special occasions, as American traditions, despite their Eastern European roots. American food is a richly woven tapestry that will continue to unfold as long as new people arrive and thread in their tastes, techniques and textures into our culinary consciousness.


Middle Eastern Rice Pilaf - yields 6 to 8 servings

1/4 cup olive oil
1/4 pound angle hair pasta - broken into small pieces
2 shallots - minced
1 garlic clove - minced
2 teaspoon ground coriander
11/2 cups Basmati rice
1/8 cup currant
2 teaspoon lemon zest - finely minced
1/4 cup pine nuts - lightly toasted
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoon salt
1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley leaves
1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves
1/2 cup white wine

Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees.

Heat a 6 cup sauce pan and add the oil. Add in the pasta and sauté until a dark golden brown, not burnt. Add into shallots, the garlic rice and coriander into the pasta, and continue cooking for a few minutes – moving it constantly. Add in the rice, currants, zest, pine nuts, cayenne, black pepper, salt, parsley and cilantro. Mix to thoroughly incorporate. Pour in the white wine and cook until it has evaporated. Pour in 3 cups of water and bring to the boil. Cover the pan with a tight fitting lid, and place in the oven. Cook the rice mixture for 20 minutes. Shut off the heat of the oven and let the rice sit another 15 minutes.

Correct seasoning and serve.

Lamb Fillets with Sweet Soy Sauce - yields 4 servings

1 1/2 pound lamb loin fillets
2 to 3 garlic cloves -diced
3 shallots - diced
1/8-cup mint leaves - chopped
1/2-cup sake
3/4-cup ketcap manis (Indonesian Sweet Soy)
1-tablespoon sesame oil
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Season the lamb with the pepper, and heat a grill pan. Seal the lamb on all sides cooking it for a total of 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, and place in a 200 degree oven keep warm. Heat a 10 inch sauté pan and add the oil and shallots. Brown lightly and then add the garlic cooking for a few minutes longer. Pour in the sake off the heat and then return to the flame and reduce by half. Add the mint and keptcap manis and cook for a few minutes to heat to through. Season with freshly ground pepper.

Remove the lamb from the oven and slice into thirds. Spoon over the sauce and serve.