A summer pattie

This might sound like heresy, but I was never a fan of the typical summer cookout. And now, with the information out there about what gets encased into a hot dog or the pink slime that makes hamburger helper seem like a whole grain extender I am glad to have had a contrary response to a summer picnic table. I realize I was having the same reaction to these foods as I would to a fast food meal and not surprising because thrown on the backyard grill or packaged as a happy meal these were the same products.

Not to sound too un-American I do love a well-made sausage, however, it is usually from a small batch butcher -- how I carve the smoked pheasant sausage of Quattro Farms from New York State. A heaping of grainy mustard and I am good to go. A burger on the other hand is a different kettle of fish. I needed to be deeply hangover before I found myself jaws unhinged eating a burger – and it has been decades since I have gotten that blotto. I do like to participate in rituals though, I do find myself making burgers just never pre-formed. It is too simple to buy the ground meat (I usually go for buffalo, pork or chicken) and concoct my own with a liberal seasoning of fresh herbs and perhaps smoked paparika. Fish versions require the additional step of grinding up the meat in the food process before moving forward with an idea. Plus, I don’t like the burger to be about the “pilings” on and the subsequent mess I will make. No, I want the meat to stand on it own with it own unique flavors. A simple garnishment will do, thank you.

Tilapia Burgers – yields 6 pieces

1-pound tilapia – roughly chopped (shrimp maybe substituted)

2-tablespoons Texas tarragon leaves

2-teaspoons thyme

1-tablespoon grated ginger

1-celery stalk - minced

2-egg whites

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

In a food processor place the tilapia and pulse to break the fish down. Add in the tarragon, thyme, ginger and celery and process to fully incorporate into the fish. Remove the fish to a work bowl and mix in the eggs, salt and pepper.

Form the fish into 6 patties, and place in the refrigerator for a minimum of an hour in order to allow them to firm up.

Cook on the grill for about 4 minutes a side, or under the broiler.

Onion-Tomato Relish

1-small red onion

1-teaspoon salt

¼-cup fresh lime juice

1/2-pound ripe tomatoes

1-tablespoon shredded lemon verbena leaves

Cut the onion in half through its root. Slice each half into very thin julienne, and toss with the salt and lime juice. Allow the onion to sit at room room temperature for about 15 to 30 minutes.

Slice the tomatoes into thin strips and toss into the onions along with the verbena leaves. 

Serve at room temperature or cold.

What I have learned.....

For years I have been the guide through markets around the country helping food enthusiasts negotiate their local farmer’s markets. Never go with a shopping list or any expectations apart from being in the moment has always been my mantra while surveying the jewels laid out. Never really sure what went into the production of the treasures I would find, taking for granted that a seed is dropped into the soil, and watered, and presto.

If it was only that simple – if you are trying to grow organically there are plagues of weeds and insects you are constantly battling. Are the conditions right for the plant to take root, sprout and deliver the part we are looking to eat? While one tomato seed may produce enough fruit for numerous meals from a carrot seed comes a carrot. Have many seeds do farmer’s plant to be able to give me the selection of that subterranean, nutrient packed vegetable? Herbs are definitely from the other end of the spectrum pretty easy to maintain as long as you don’t overwater or underwater; making sure the sun is ample enough or not, and you snip those budding flower heads as they develop in order to take the plant at it maximum fragrance.  If you succeed some of these plants will voluntarily return the following year, a bit stronger, for our embrace. My loveage for example, I thought it was given the right conditions for a strong life but never really took-ff. I wrote chalked it up as an experience, and assumed it was going to be brought into the house by the bunch. A few weeks ago in the spot where it limped through last year it erupted and stands bushy and tall radiating celery-like perfumed leaves – does my favorite herb farmer plant a year or two in advance? Tending my own plot of earth has given my great pleasure, and an appreciation for the planning and work that goes into a working farm and the delight I get upon receiving the bounty of their efforts. Never again will I consider the price too expense considering the labor involved, just perhaps out of my budget. 

Lamb Burgers – yields 8 burgers

¼-cup amaranth

1 small onion – minced

1-pound ground lamb

2-tablespoons Italian parsley leaves – chopped

1-tablespoon tarragon leaves – chopped

1-tablespoon loveage leaves – chopped

2-garlic cloves – finely minced

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat a 2-cup saucepan over a high flame, and add the amaranth. Toast the amaranth, stirring occasionally, until it starts to pop. Be careful not to burn it. Lower the heat to medium-low and add ½-cup water. Place a lid on the pan and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the flame and allow the amaranth to cool completely.

In a large bowl mix together all the ingredients to thoroughly combine. Divide the lamb mixture into eighths and form into patties.

Cook on the grill or a sauté pan for about 5 minutes on each side.