Herb Me

For the majority of my life the herbaceous notes I added to a dish came from a vendor, tied in bundles with twine, wire or rubber bands. I could never be sure how long they took to get to my kitchen – in the winter months it was a sure bet that they were long traveled before getting plucked by me. I attempted windowsill gardening, with more or less marginal results. I am an herb fanatic adhering to the philosophy: when in doubt toss in some more. I am clearly attached to fresh, verdant, scented leaves. Dried herbs have very little place in my cooking life with the exception of dried hyssop, which is part of my z’aatar blend, or lavender buds which get dried to be used well beyond its limited season.

The unfortunate part of loving to use herbs is that they really don’t have the greatest shelf life – basil seems to start wilting as soon as it’s taken from the earth and cilantro can go slimy awfully quickly. I am in the habit of purchasing herbs at the farmer’s markets getting bunches that were at least not already beyond pleasure. I would store these herbs in cups with just enough water to keep them perky never covering them in plastic so condensation does not start breaking down the leaves. Rosemary, thyme, oregano and mint have lasted the longest under these conditions. These days I don’t worry about my herbs going off in the refrigerator, no now, I obsess about them bolting and flowering.

I always thought I had a black thumb but in reality my windowsill that faced north just wasn’t bright enough and the truth is these aromatic weeds have proven relatively easy to propagate.

No longer am I buying bunches I get to capriciously decide what I am in the mood for, and just slip out through the screened-in porch with my snipping shears. There, in view from the kitchen window, is my herbal potager. In a 10x3 feet raised planter; sorrel for that ever so sour pucker; loveage and mistuba offer alternatives to celery and parsley, respectively. Basics like sage, thyme and chives give easy snips. At the one end, which is kept damp, Vietnamese cilantro flourishes while a leafy wasabi varietal and watercress are experimental this year. And, this is just a fraction of the edible, fragrant plants scattered around the gardens. From 5 different basils to summer savory to borage and bergamot I am able to perfume a dish on a whim and a whiff.

Smashed New Potatoes­ - yields 6 servings

2½-pounds small new potatoes - such as yukon gold, red bliss or purple Peruvian

3 to 4 garlic cloves - sliced paper thin

1-tablepsoon chopped - summer savory

1-tablespoon chopped thyme

1-tablspoon chopped rosemary

1-tablespoon chopped mint

Zest of 1 lemon

½-cup extra virgin olive oil

salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a 4 quart pot and cover with cold water along with 2-teaspoons of salt. Bring the potatoes to the boil and cook the potatoes until fork tender, about 20 minutes.

In a work bowl, large enough to hold the potatoes, mix together the garlic, herbs, lemon zest, oil, and pepper to taste.

 Once the potatoes are cooked, drain them and then using a large spoon or a spatula lightly smash each potato to just have them split open. Place them in the work bowl and toss the hot potatoes with the oil mixture to coat well. Serve the potatoes immediately or serve at room temperature.

Scratch and Sniff Heaven

I am making my list leaving plenty of room for impulse buys. I have made sure that my calendar in clear for the morning. It is so hard for me not to be too anxious, anticipating tomorrow. The Asheville Herb Festival begins tomorrow, sunny skies and warm temperatures are guaranteed, and this year I have a new garden with plenty of empty space. Last year, on my first visit, I was more of a voyeur with a wish list. The farmer selling mitsuba and shiso, which was able to go home with me, also had wasabi. The new house has a stream running through it where I have already planted watercress and ostrich fern is about to get another roommate. I am chomping at the bit to see if I can manage growing wasabi; stashed away, a shagreen wasabi grater I have had since living in Tokyo is ready to come out of retirement.

I love farmer’s markets, no great revelation, and all those brilliant vegetables and fruits I come across. However, it is the employment of herbs and spices that increases the pleasure of a dish: peas are taken

to another level with the simple addition of mint and summer savory should be as basic in your repertoire as parsley and thyme. So, heading to an event dedicated to olfactory satisfaction is pure nirvana. Even with more than fifteen herbs growing around the house, there is always room for more. 

 Bread Salad  - serves 6 to 8

3 cups of cubed bread – from crusty Italian peasant loaf or baguette

2 garlic cloves – crushed to a pasted

1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard

1-cup extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground pepper and salt to taste

1 pint yellow cherry tomatoes - halved

1 hot house cucumber - ¾” diced

1 small red onion - sliced thinly

3 celery stalks - ¾” diced

1-cup fresh peas

5 scallions - diced

2 bunches arugula - washed and roughly chopped

1-cup torn sorrel leaves

2-tablespoons pine nuts - toasted

½-cup torn mint leaves

¼-cup red wine vinegar

Spread the bread cubes on a baking tray and dry out in a 250-degree for about 10 minutes. Do not allow the bread cubes to develop too much color, but dry out.

Place the vinegar, garlic, mustard, salt, pepper in a food processor and pulse. Pour in the oil and process till smooth.

Toss all ingredients together making sure to distribute the dressing thoroughly.  Serve.

If you want you can assemble the components of the salad up to 24 hours in advance.  Keep the bread and dressing separate until you are ready to serve. 

Tonight, we roast

Feeding those we Love

Nightly we set the Table

A crisp day is warmed by their Smiles

Braised Pork Loin with Rice Dumplings – serves 4 to 6

3-pound pork loin

2 large onions – roughly chopped

8-10 whole garlic cloves – carefully peeled

2 celery stalks – sliced thinly

6 stems of thyme

1½-cups cooked rice

2-tablespoons fresh mint leaves – chopped

1-tablespoon thyme leaves – chopped

½-cup chickpea flour

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven 325-degrees.

Heat a 3-quart casserole dish over a high flame, and add the pork loin. Brown the pork on all sides. Remove from the casserole dish, and immediately add in the onions, garlic, celery and thyme. Cook for a few mintues, and return the pork to the dish. Pour over 1-cup of water, and season with salt and pepper. Cover securely, and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours.

In the meantime, to make the dumpling place the rice, mint, thyme and ½-teaspoon salt in a food process along with ¼-cup of water. Process the rice mixture until particularly smooth. Transfer the rice puree into a bowl, and with a spoon thoroughly mix in the chickpea flour. Form the rice mixture into approximately 14 balls (the size of a walnut – it is easiest if you keep your hands dmapened), and hold on a plate mositened with a thin film of water.

After the pork has cooked for two hours, add in the rice dumplings and replace the cover. Retun to the oven and cook an additional 1-hour. Serve.