UNITED TASTE with RICHARD RUBEN

With my love

2012-02-09T19:15:00.003-05:00

That box of chocolates hastily grabbed on the way home, an assortment of rainbow colored macaroons and a vanilla scented candle burning; expectations high.

The cynics decry this day for should we not show
our love everyday, but what iswrong with a moment dedicated to the expression of appreciation? A robin’s eggblue bag is lovely to find perched on the kitchen counter next to your morningcoffee as is bouquet of your favorite flower, but for me these synthesizedlyrical messages are not necessary. No, what I need is time together.

Love is the collective effort put into something or someone, and is not apurchased feeling and does not have to be manifested with a red laminatedheart. I want the sweat of the relation to be the present and not just due tothe slick remnant of an embrace (though I would snub that). In ruminating how Iwanted to spend our day of recognition I made the request we spend it togetherbuilding and prepping for the future…in the garden. It may be the dead ofwinter and every little is growing, but spring will be here tomorrow and life’sbed must be made. So, my gift will be a three-day rental of a 5-horse powerroto-tiller, delivery of 12 buckets of aged manure, and me and my partnerspending time the days together toiling away and re-committing to the future.

Many may view a whole weekend of rising early and working in the cold notvery romantic though for me it is quite the opposite. Sharing life, creatingmemories and planning for the future is deeply touching to me and reinforcesthe commitment I am in, not to forget the hope for a bountiful harvest monthsafter the FTS flowers have died and that box of chocolates is still requiring aregular spin class visits to offset that Valentine largess.

Mango Lobster Salad – yields 4 servings

1-small red onion – thinly sliced

1-lime – juiced (approx 1/3-cup)

1-1/2 pound lobster

1 mango

1 avocado

1/2-cup thinly sliced heart of palm

Bring a wide 6-quart pot filled with water to the boil.Place the lobster in the water and cook for 16 to 18 minutes. Remove from thewater, and allow the lobster to cool.

In the interim, toss the sliced onion with the lime juice,and a pinch of salt in a small work bowl, and let it sit at room temperaturefor 15 to 30 minutes.

Peel and slice the mango and avocado into 1/8-inch thickstrips.

Next, breakdown the lobster by carefully cracking thelobster’s shells and removing the tail and claw meat. Ideally, you want toremove whole sections of meat. Slice the tail meat into sixths on a slightangle. Slice the claw, as well on an angle, in fourths.

Assemble the salad by placing a ring mold (a tuna can openedon both sides works as well) on the center of the plate. Lay down a layer ofavocado, then mango. Fan a layer of lobster meat, and then repeat with themango and avocado. Top each mold with a layer of heart of palm. Gently removethe mold, and garnish each mold with a bit of the red onion. Drizzle each saladwith Mint-Cilantro Dressing (recipe follows).

Mint-Cilantro Sauce – yields approx. 1 cup

1/4-cup soy sauce

2-tablespoon champagne vinegar

1/8-teaspoon fennel seeds

1-teaspoon orange zest

1/2-cup mint leaves

1/4-cup cilantro leaves

4 scallions – green portion only

1/4-cup olive oil

1/8-teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Place all ingredients into the container of a blender, andprocess until completely smooth. Taste and correct seasoning.

Unexpected, oh but welcomed

2012-01-26T15:31:00.000-05:00

An early spring excites

Eyes that take in sight

That heady redolent glow

Nature is ready to grow

Packets sealed waiting to sow

Thetime has come to start to hoe

Short Rib and Barley Stew – yields 6 yields

2-pounds short ribs

2-large onions – peeled and sliced ¼-inch

5-garlic cloves – chopped

3-carrots – cut into 1-inch pieces

2-parsnips – cut into 1-inch pieces

½-pound mushrooms

1-ounce dried mushroom (such as porcini, chanterelle or morel)

¾-pound celery root – peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

¼-cup roughly chopped Italian parsley

2-tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

1-tablespoon fresh sage leaves – roughly chopped

¾-cup hulled barley

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Heat an eight to ten quart casserole pot over a high flame, and brown the short ribs on all sides. Once the ribs have browned add in the sliced onions, and cook until the onions just start to wilt. Then mix in the garlic, carrots, parsnips, mushroom (including dried), celery root, parsley, thyme and sage. Season with salt and pepper, and pour in 4-cups of water.

Bring to a boil and then reduce the temperature to medium-low and cover. Cook the stew for 2-hours. Then mix in the ¾-cups of barley, and return the lid, cooking for an additional hour. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper.

Into the Mix

2012-01-23T15:07:00.000-05:00

Why is it that every time I meet someone new, and they find out that I am achef I am immediately asked, what kind of food do you make? I have never beencomfortable with this inquiry; I am aware the inference is what type of cuisinedo I make. I am a product of the society I grew up in, so I can only say, Icreate American food. Not the foods that may have been laid out during theEisenhower administration – Jell-O molds have terrified since childhood.Rather, I grew up experiencing a world’s worth of flavors and sensations withinthe reach of my hometown. The “international aisle” of grocery store alwaysmade me wonder, if all the other foods arranged on those shelves were American.After culinary school where I kept my arm raised, and ears open to a myopic, intensiveFrancophile’s discipline I set out the flesh out my education and satisfy along held nagging question…just what is American food and how did it evolve,and what was this obsession with all things French?

The latter came a tad more easily for me too understand for the structured,codified system of the French kitchen was capable of being replicated. Therewas a centralized, static conversation coming out of the aristocratic classthat trained workers who subsequently found themselves unemployed with theFrench revolution moving a rarified presentation to the cafes, bistros andrestaurants around the world. The same cannot be said of the more fragmented,working-class based foods of the majority of the world. It has taken over 230years and multiple waves of immigration and, the establishment of smalleateries throughout this land and the onslaught of television food shows togive me an understanding of just what “American” food is. It is not just thehotdog and water reconstituted mac-n-cheese but it is very spice, grain andvegetable eaten across the globe and brought over to add comfort to anotherwise unfamiliar life.

One’s comfort food for me has become a moment of marvel, exploration andembrace – the true definition of authentic. The foundation I received in theart of cooking has not changed; heat a pan first to prevent the item fromsticking and water boils at 212-degree Fahrenheit across the earth at sea levelgoes with me everywhere. Though, I now think of everything as coming from theinternational aisle, and only I, after 5 generations am American, and that ishighly debatable.

Layered Meat Pie – yields 9x3 inch spring form pan

1-tablespooon smoked paparika

1-tablespoon coriander seed

1/8-teaspoon cinnamon

2-teaspoons annatto seed

4-cloves

1-teaspoon celery seed

1-teaspoon cuminseed

¼-cup goldenraisins

1/3-cup choppedsun-dried tomato

1-tablspoon choppedfresh oregano leaves

2-teaspoon choppedfresh thyme leaves

½-cup roughlychopped green olives

1-tablespoon capers

1-large onion –minced

5-cloves of garlic- diced

½-pound ground chicken

½-pound ground pork

1-yellow plantain -peeled and sliced on the angle into ½-inch pieces

1-pound yucca – peeledand center fiber discarded

1-pound batata -peeled

½-pound yautia-peeled

Salt and freshlyground black pepper to taste

In a spice grinderblend the paparika, coriander, cinnamon, annatto, clove, celery and cumin seedsto a fine powder. Place in a large work bowl.

To the spicemixture add the raisins, sun dried tomato, oregano, thyme, olives, capers,onion, garlic, ground chicken and pork. Mix all together to thoroughly combineall the ingredients.

Grate the yucca,battata and yautia together, and season with salt and pepper.

Pre-heat the ovento 350-degrees.

Line the bottomsides of the spring form pan with the sliced plantains to cover the outercircumference. Press in a third of the grated yucca mixture with the ring ofthe plantains. Then press in half of the meat mixture, then another third ofthe yucca mixture. Repeat with the remaining meat mixture and yucca mixture.

Place the springform pan on a baking tray, cook in the oven for 2 hours. Remove from the ovenand allow the meat pie rest for a half hour to an hour before releasing thespring form pan.

I have succumbed

2012-01-18T12:43:00.002-05:00

I have become obsessed with cream pie over the last few months (really, Ithink it is my secret obsession with sweetened condensed milk). Did I read toomany articles toward the latter part of last year that forecasted food trendsfor the upcoming months, and did I take in that subliminal message that pieswere going to be all the rage for 2012? It is so not like me to succumb totrends and fads; I usually run in the opposite direction of the masses findingcomfort in the space left unoccupied.

I have been part of trend for eating and sourcing foods locally for some 10plus years – when it was edgy. I have not run from that as a matter of fact Irelish the company I keep within this trend. Markets have cropped up everywhereand variety is booming, and I due believe this is a direct result of not justmyself and another militant food compatriots looking to secure foodsregionally, but every sector of the city seems to have canvas bag in tow. Though I do wish the trend was more focusedon bringing these options to the food deserts that exist throughout ourcountry.

Now, a fad I understand clearly – they come and they go. Does a trend havethe possibility of disappearing as well? Shouldn’t it just be a fact that we are all having access to eathealthy, nutritionally vibrant foods always, without the prognosticators hopingit will be? How many pies need to beconsumed this year to make this trend an established fact and what about theadage, “American as apple pie?” can something so iconic be a trend?

Banana Cream Pie – yields 8-inch pie

¾-cup groundvanilla wafers

½-cup grated, driedcoconut

1 egg white

2 ripe bananas

14-ounce cansweetened condensed milk

6 egg yolks

2-teaspoons vanillaextract

Pre-heat to 350degrees.

Lightly oil aneight-inch pie pan with butter or canola oil.

Mix the groundswafers, coconut and egg white together, and press evenly into an 8-inch piepan. Make sure you come about half way up the sides of the pie pan.

Bake the crust for10-minutes in the oven on the middle rack.

Remove the pieshell, and cool. Lower the oven temperature to 325-degrees.

In the meanwhile, blendthe condensed milk, egg yolks, bananas and vanilla extract in a blender or foodprocessor until smooth.

Pour in the sweetenedcondensed milk mixture into the cool pie shell, and return to the oven.

Bakefor about 45 minutes until the center of the pie is just set. Shut off the heatand allow the pie to cool completely in the oven. Then place in therefrigerator for a few hours to cool before serving.

Countdown

2012-01-10T19:18:00.000-05:00

I am in complete amazement regarding my accomplishments in the garden. Itis the second week of January and I still have an ample selection of items tokeep me from needing to use a market for more than a rounding out of a meal –onions, garlic, citrus and avocados seem to be what I am purchasing to takehome. Now, by all accounts it has been a mild winter, which is no burden for a sun-loving,sweltering heat-loving creature like myself. However, I have been advised thatI will have to cross the divide between growth and rest. Yes, my little plotneeds some time to replenish itself by being fed the compost I have beenturning for almost the past year augmented with well aged manure and a weekendrental – that roto tiller that took me down last year. I have been given aFebruary 1^st deadline to have all my darlings consumed so nextyear’s round will be well fed, just as we have been this year.

Today I am starting by finally seizing the remaining cabbage plants fromthe garden that have been there from day one. They have survived spring, summerand fall allowing me to pinch a head in each season, and now, with their finalhours approaching I will use the small clusters that have formed in tonight’sdinner. I had read that if you snip the large, dense cabbage head but leave therest of the plant a less robust heads will form giving you multiple harvestsoff a single planting – I put four cabbage plants in the garden. I am slowly,but surely, clipping the leaves from the broccoli that longer has the energy toproduce any flowers, and have made stir fries and oven crisps with greatfrequency this winter. Though I think a will most likely take my Romanesquebroccoli last for its flower is taking the longest to develop. Spying into thecenter of the leaf mass I see nascent, coral looking formations, and I beg themto hurry up – what if a hard, extended freeze comes along!

Pork, Cabbage andPotato Stew – yields 6 servings

1-1/2 poundsboneless pork butt

½-pound smokedsausage – such as Andouille, Kielbasa – cut into 1-inch pieces

2- large onions –peeled and sliced into ½-inch half moon shape

5-garlic cloves –chopped

1-teaspoon carawayseed

1-teaspoon celeryseed

12-cups roughlychopped cabbage leaves (or combination of cabbage/cauliflower leaves)

1-1/2 pounds potato– such as Yukon gold or French fingerlings – cut into 1-inch chunks

Salt and freshlyground black pepper to taste

Heat a 12-quartcasserole pot over a medium high heat, and add the pork but and sausage. Allowthe meat to brown on all sides. Remove the meat from the pot, and hold in abowl.

Into the pot addthe onions and garlic, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes to lightly brown – stirringoccasionally. Then mix in the caraway and celery seeds cooking for a minutelonger. Return the meat to the pot and place the cabbage leaves over the meat.Put on the lid and cook for 10 minutes. Once the leaves have wilted down a bitadd the potatoes, and salt and pepper. Return the lid, and lower the heat tolow, and cook for about 2 to 3 hours.

Correct seasoningwith salt and pepper. The pork should fall apart, if not, use a spoon to breakup the pork. Serve garnished with grainy mustard.

Tang

2012-01-03T17:42:00.000-05:00

Back into it after the indulgence of the holiday season where I enjoyed time off with my love, and other family members and myriad of citrus fruits that that state offers during this time of year. It seems I got out of south Florida just prior to the first frost of the year (ok, we are only 3 days into it). From Rio Red grapefruits, Honey Bell oranges, and Key limes all came home with me. I have also benefitted, up until last night, to a garden that was still putting forth edibles. I even had some asparagus spears precociously perceiving the ground well before I even considered the winter blues.

Thoughwith a temperature dropping into the 20’s last night I fear it would put thekibosh to my ability to augment my evening meals with the remaining vegetablesin my yard not to mention sending those iconic vernal tips back under ground.Before the sun set on my plot, I covered as much as I could with a heavy canvastarp looking to protect my arugula, kale and cauliflower, and even wrapped myRomanesque broccoli with individual garbage bags – though they were not extratough - and a bed sheet. Now, as the new day’s sun slowly ascends, and warmsthe evening burden I am hoping my lovelies will bounce back – they definitely stiffenedwith the artic blast but I saw no signs of ice crystals, so fingers crossed. Ialso hope that so early in the citrus season that this quick flash-freeze doesnot harm the nascent crop. Otherwise, the party-flavors I brought home may bewhat I can expect. Hopefully, you have, like I have squirreled away the heightof summer in form of pestos, pickles, frozen vegetables and have an array of spicesto play with even if winter puts the brakes on the variety of items availablein your own backyard.

Citrus Salad –serves 4 to 6

1-red grapefruit – peeled

2-oranges (such as Honey Bell, Tangelo) -peeled

1-star fruit

1-kiwi – peeled

2-teaspoons fresh thyme leaves roughly chopped

Pinch of salt

Quarter the grapefruit and oranges and discard any seeds. Then cut eachquarter into 4^th’s.

Thinly slice the star fruit and chop the kiwi. In a bowl toss all ingredients together, and serve over arugula leaves.

Sweet recall

2011-12-14T17:00:00.000-05:00

Guava-AlmondBiscotti – yields approx. 30 pieces

4-ounces unsaltedbutter

¾-cup sugar

2-eggs

2-teaspoons vanillaextract

¼-teaspoon rosewater

2-cups flour

1-teaspoon bakingpowder

Pinch of salt

3-ounces guavapaste – diced

¼-cup slicedalmonds

Pre-heat the ovento 350 degrees.

Sift the flour,baking powder and salt together.

Cream the butteruntil light and fluffy in a standing mixture or with a hand held beater. Add in the sugar and beat for a fewminutes. Beat in the eggs one at a time,making sure each is thoroughly incorporated before the next addition. Mix the vanilla and rose water into thebutter. Add the flour mixture into thebutter and work until just combined. Then on a slow speed mix in the guava paste and almonds.

Chill the dough forat least one hour in the refrigerator.

On a lightlyfloured surface form the dough into thirds and gently roll into logs that areabout 10 to 12-inches in length. Then place a lined baking tray. Bake the cookies in the oven forapproximately 15 minutes, or until the logs are just golden brown and set. Remove from the oven, and let cool. Slice the logs into ¼-inch pieces on anangle. Place back on a baking tray andbake again for about 10 minutes to dry out. You may want to turn the cookies over in order to insure that both sidesdry out well.

What I like

2011-12-11T11:14:00.001-05:00

As a child I remember my mother taking us grocery shopping with her, almosteveryday we would end up at Pathmark, Waldbaums or the Big Banana procuringprovisions for the household that never saw a cupboard go bare. As a matter offact, we had a spare pantry in the garage that could have served as aneighborhood mini-market. My mom was acoupon shopper, so we were usually on the hunt for advertised and unadvertisedbargains. I think she should have been a very successful professional shopper.

As for me, I did not fall far from the tree. Like my mom, I tend to shopeveryday going to specific stores, markets, and shops for a particular item. Iobnoxiously know the prices of items from store to store, and while I am not acoupon user I will go the mile to get the better price. When I find myself in anew farmer’s market the first thing I do is a walk-thru – sizing up seasonalofferings and who has the competitive price.

Unlike my mom I rarely stop at the “deli guy.” My appetite for slicedbologna with French’s mustard has disappeared and I am more apt to head to afavorite Spanish grocery for waft thin slices of Serrano ham. The one purchaseI made from a traditional deli, when I was in my twenties, was rice pudding. Ialways begged my mom to buy some rice or bread pudding from the shinyrefrigerated case decorated with frills of purple kale. I was always told no,followed up with a justification for the negative response, “our people don’teat it.” Our people!? I never quite got it though I assumed it was not kosher,however, we did not keep a kosher household and a matter of fact she made afabulous pineapple/clove baked ham which I was sure was not kosher. Yearslately my mom confessed that she were not a fan of either dessert, and that iswhy she won’t buy it. Guess, this apple has rolled out of the orchard.

Much to my mom’s amusement I have become a great fan of the these simple,humble indulgences and have produce quite a few over the years for familygatherings – though she never warmed up to them.

White Chocolate Bread Pudding – yields13x7x2

1-loaf good quality white bread or brioche (approximately1-pound)

1-quart cream

1-cup chopped white chocolate

6-egg yolks

½-cup sugar

1-tablespoon vanilla extract

½-cup dried cherries, apricots or blueberries

½-cup sliced almonds

¼-cup sugar

Pre-heat the oven to 325-degrees.

Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes, and hold to the side.

In a 2-quart saucepan add the cream and white chocolate. Overa low flame warm the cream to melt the chocolate – don not let it come to aboil.

In the meantime, beat the egg yolks and sugar together untilpale yellow and fluffy. Once, the cream has warmed, and the chocolate is meltedslowly whisk it into the egg yolks – taking car not to curdle the eggs. Thenwhisk in the vanilla.

Spread the bread cubes and dried cherries into the baking pan.Pour over the egg/cream mixture. Gently press down on the bread in order tomake sure it is soaked in the egg/cream mixture. Sprinkle the almonds thenremaining ¼-cup of sugar over the top.

Place in to the oven n for 45 minutes, or until the center,when gently pressed, is set. Serve warm or cold.

Caramel Sauce – yields approx.1-1/2-cups

2-cups sugar

¼-cup water

¼-cup orange flavored liquor (such as Grand Marnier)

2-teaspoons unsalted butter

½-cup cream

In a 1-quart saucepan bring the sugar and water to a boil.Don’t stir the mixture just let the sugar fully dissolve – this will lessen thechance that the sugar will re-crystalize creating a look like rock candy. Oncethe sugar has completely dissolved add the Grand Marnier. Continue to boil themixture until it takes on a dark amber hue. It is a slippery slope betweenprefect caramel and burnt.

Remove from the heat and carefully stir in the butter, andthen the cream. Allow the mixture to cool before using. This sauce can be heldat room temperature.

Preheat the oven

2011-12-06T18:51:00.001-05:00

I have decided that the month of December is going to be dedicated tobaking. Anyone who is familiar with my cooking career I would never beconsidered a baker. Now, of course, I can pull off what I need to do as long asI don’t have to present an iced layer cake; give me a cookie, pie, trifle orice cream request, and I can find my groove. The irony is that a white cakewith vanilla buttercream is crack for me. If I had to present one that I madeto a client I could never pull off a professionally made one. In culinaryschool applying buttercream evenly, smoothly, seamlessly was not one of themany culinary attributes I exhibited. I was fond of that peaked, mom’s stylingapplication probably because I quickly recognized my inability to improve upona Duncan Hines styling. So, I made itmy business to befriend bakers.

Not all baked goods are for dessert. I love making bread, and refuse to usean electric aide in bringing together the dough – I view the action of kneadingas an upper-body workout, and won’t stop until a bead of sweat trickle downs myback. The winter months also have me baking main courses: shepherd’s pies,phyllo encased fish filets and empanadas becomes part of my repertoire. Clearly,my natural pull towards savory foods causes me to season these swathed disheswith a myriad of spices, herbs, meats and vegetables. And, they are prefect one-dishmeals or freezer-friendly concoctions that can be whipped up on one of thosedays when the weather says it is best to stay in doors. For those friends whoare prepared to brave wind, precipitation (wet or frozen) and the generalambient temperature will find a homey meal waiting for them slightly lopsidedcake included.

Chicken and Sausage Pie – yields 6to 8 servings

½-cup coconut milk

1-cup coarse cornmeal

1-tablespoon grapeseed oil

1-large onion – sliced into ¼-inchhalf-moom shape

4-garlic cloves – roughly chopped

4-celery stalks – sliced into½-inch pieces

½-pound smoked sasage – such asAndouille, chorizo

1-whole chicken breast

3-cups chopped greens – such askale, beet, mustard, collard

¼-cup chopped fresh oregano

2-tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

¼-teaspoon whole cumin seed

¼-teaspoon whole celery seed

1/8-teaspoon whole caraway seed

Salt and freshly ground pepper totaste

In a 2-quart sauce pan bring thecoconut milk plus 2-1/2 cups of water to the boil over a high flame. Once the coconut has come to the boil, addthe cornmeal, salt and pepper and using a whisk. Continue whisking the cornmealto make sure there are not lumps. Then switch to a wooden spoon and lower theflame to medium low, and stir constantly for about 10-minutes. The finishedcornmeal mixture should look like wet mashed potatoes. Remove from the flame,and reserve.

Pre-heat the oven to 375-degrees.

In a 10-inch cast iron skillet addthe grapeseed oil, onion, garlic and celery and start cooking over a medium lowflame. Allow the mixture to cook until the onions are golden brown – about 15to 20 minutes.

Allow the onions brown slice thesausage into ½-inch pieces, and

the chicken into 1-inch chunks. Once the onionshave cooked turn the heat up to high and mix in the sausage, chicken, cumin,celery seed and caraway. Cook for a few minutes and season with salt andpepper. Mix in the greens, oregano and thyme – you will need to add the greensin probably three batches. Remove from the heat, and spread the reservedcornmeal over the top of the mixture. Mositen the back of a spoon with water tomore easily spread the cornmeal across the top.

Place in the oven, and bake for 30 minutes– the top should be golden brown.

And, so it begins!!

2011-11-30T12:34:00.001-05:00

It is time to put away the array of gourds spayed out on the dining table;turkeys made from popsicle sticks and pilgrim high hats, and swap them out for clementines studdedwith cloves, cutout reindeer and cotton ball beards. Yikes, it is not evenDecember 1^st, though we have been pushed to start promoting theseason earlier and earlier. It is like the campaign season – it goes on way toolong. For me, mid-December is the time I start feeling the holiday spirit anduntil then I try to keep my head down and avoid the frantic need to bargainshop for no reason, save the thrill of the deal.

To occupy my attention for the next few weeks I will be baking, and storingaway cookies and cakes that will honor holiday get-togethers and fill giftboxes when a tip envelope needs to be sealed with a sweet. I guess, the truthof the matter is I am a last minute shopper for gifts, that person wanderingthe streets trying to figure what to buy. Perhaps that is why I am spending mytime baking – it is far less panic-attack inducing for me. I understand whatcan be done in advance and how to pleasure people with just a bite – though askmy partner, and he’ll tell you I bite too hard!

Persimmon Cake – yields 9-inch cake

4-ounces unsalted butter

1-cup dark brown sugar or jaggery

2-eggs

1/8-teaspoon pineapple extract

1/8-teaspoon orange blossom water

2-cups flour

2-teaspoon baking powder

Pinch of salt

¼-cup cream

1/2-cup pureed persimmon (from one Fuyu variety – unpeeled)

½-cup pureed apple (from one small – unpeeled)

½-cup chopped walnuts

Preheat the oven to 350-degrees.

Butter and flour a 9-inch cake pan.

In a standing mixer, or with a handheld mixer, blend thebutter and sugar together until very light and fluffy. Then add the eggs one ata time, so that each one is completely mixed in before adding the next one.Then mix in the pineapple and orange blossom flavoring.

In a bowl stir together the flour, baking powder and salt. Addhalf the flour in to the butter mixture, and stir to combine. Then add thecream and fruit puree, mixing to thoroughly incorporate. Mix in the remainingflour then stir in the walnuts. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan.

Bake in the oven for about 30 minutes or until a cake tester insertedin the middle comes out clean. Remove from the oven to a cooling rack. After itcools invert on to the cool rack to cook completely. Serve with whipped creamor a scoop of ice cream.

A side

2011-11-22T16:00:00.001-05:00

And so, we are all planning for Thursday’s feed by either stuffing a bagthat will fit in the overhead compartment, in order to avoid an inane fee, orperhaps it is that hostess gift you must secure. For me, it is preparing mysegment of the meal. I am traveling, though luckily by car, happily I can packas many bags as I will need. I am responsible for the sides and desserts. Now,I have about a 5-hour road trip ahead of me so I need to plan and make surethat everything I put into that igloo will survive. The beet and fennel saladwill journey with no issue though I am crossing my fingers that the chocolatepie does not soften up too much while enroute before I can get it back underrefrigeration. I will do my roasted Brussels sprouts the day of for they onlytake 15 minutes. The sweet potatoes, I am sure, will endure the three statetrek.

Igrew up, like many, always having that sweet potato mash placed on the holidaytable golden and gooey on top. I was never a fan of marshmallows; be impaled ona twig to be charred or scattered as a cover for sweet potatoes. Ironically, Iwas a fluff kind-of-kid in lieu of peanut butter with my jelly. I cannot imagewhat that little kid found so endearing about that sugary froth for the idea oftrying it today sends me into diabetic shock. I have not thrown out thecomplete idea of a sweetened potato dish it just needed a change in direction.So, worked into my mash is a generous crumble of a spicy pecan caramel thatwhen warmed up creates a swirl throughout the sweet potato. It is sweet, it isa bit chewy but is not singularly clawing, which is a tad more interesting forthis Thanksgiving table.

Mashed Sweet Potatoes withCaramelized Pecans – yields 6 to 8

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/8 teaspoon ground clove

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 cup pecans

3-pounds sweet potatoes – peeledand diced

3/4-cup coconut milk

Salt and freshly ground blackpepper to taste

Lightly oil a baking tray and holdto the side. In a 1 quart sauce pandissolve the sugar in the water taking care not to allow any sugar to stick tothe walls of the pan. This could cause the re-crystallization of the sugar.Over a medium heat cook the sugar until to starts to brown lightly. Remove fromthe heat and carefully stir in the spices and pecans to thoroughly coat. Pourthe nuts out onto the oiled baking tray, and allow them to completely cool. Then break into pieces.

Cook the sweet potatoes in boiling water until fork tender, and then drain. By hand mash the potatoes along with the coconut milk, salt and pepper to taste. Stir in the pecans mixture, and place the sweet potatoes into a 4-quart casserole dish. Place the casserole dish into a 325-degree, and cook for about 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm.

Splash of Tang

2011-11-20T09:36:00.001-05:00

I am most proud of the vinegars I made this year – they are the mostflavorful with the best acidity I have ever produced. It has been about tenyears since my first attempt at making my own vinegars. It started after mytrip to Sicily and a visit to a Regaleali Winery. In the windowsill sat a largeglass jug filled with herb stems and remnants of leftover wine. I was amazedthat it could be that easy. The truth is, yes it is that easy, however, I haveexperienced that it is always possible to make mistakes. My attempt to producecoconut vinegar proved to be a good medium for mold rather than the bacteria Ineeded. Undaunted, I successfully managed to used Champagne with strawberriesand roses as well as cherry pits to make sweet, fruity vinegars. This year Iwent a tad more traditional with Mexican marigold in red wine and two whites:lemon grass and lemon verbena and a Thai basil and pineapple sage

combination.

I started with the red wine as my first batch of the season, which I fed a bottle (1-quart) of unfiltered, raw apple cider vinegar for 2 bottles (750ml) of wine. I did this to guarantee I would have the acetobacter present. Thisis an aerobic bacteria found on plants, fruits and even in soil, and consumesthe alcohol and through its metabolic process generates acid – hence vinegar,sour wine. Because it is an air loving bacteria I cover a jar with a linencloth to allow the passage of air and stow it away in an out out-of-the-awayspot for 1 to 3 months. If all goes well you will have a tart liquid covered bywhat will resemble a thick, unctuous cap, and while its appearance may be offputting, it is actually the colony of the bacteria we are looking for. The usage of the raw unfiltered vinegar in myfirst batch hedges my bets, and I don’t have to hope that the acetobacter ispresent on the herb stems I stuffed into the jar. My subsequent vinegars thisyear have all been acted upon by that original “mother” and I have continued tomore her forward into new bottles – letting her feed. Right now, she isfeasting on Champagne and pomegranate seeds.

Starchy Joy

2011-11-14T18:36:00.001-05:00

Tumbling down from the Andes Mountains a potent, starchy tuber conqueredthe world’s kitchen. Potatoes seemed to be universally embraced and has takenon a myriad of incarnations: the ubiquitous North American Idaho, the elegant Frenchfingering and plump German butterball can all be found in farmer’s markets nowthat the weather has turned. Of course, all who know me know that I hunt forthe papa amarilla this time of year. It is an Andean variety that is creamy,rich and I swear it tastes like chicken! Unfortunately, now that I have gotteneveryone excited good luck finding it for it is rare here in the northernhemisphere. With a few thousand varieties of this humble tuber grown throughoutthe world you are encourage to try more than a russet.

I use the rule of thumb that if this skin is rough to the touch it isprobably a starchier potato more apt to be fried, mashed or made into a galette,while I tend to use the waxy, or smooth skinned varieties for soups, roasts andsautés. I rarely peel the potato only if the earthy flavor of the jacket willrun interference with my desired outcome – a large quantity of its nutritionalvalue lies on this outer surface. The only steadfast rule when working withpotatoes is never put them in your food processor, well unless you are lookingto make potato glue. If you need to use a “machine” the paddle attachment of astanding mixture will quickly give you a mash or, a stick blender can beinserted in a simmering broth to thicken it. Then sometimes, simply bakedfinished with a smear of butter and sprinkle of coarse sea salt is all that isneeded.

Onion and Chirizo Soup –yields 8

1pound chirzo sausage - diced

1-tablespoon olive oil

2 pounds onion (approximately 3medium sized) – sliced very thin

3 pounds Yukon potato – peeledand diced in 1/2-inch pieces

6 garlic cloves – minced

2-teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

4 quarts of chicken stock

1-tablespoon salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground blackpepper

1/4-cup Sherry vinegar

Heat a 8-quart pot heat over amedium flame, and add the chirzo. Cook until the chrizo browns and releases itsfat. Remove the chirzo, and drain off the excess oil. Add the oil, and onion cook for10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add back in the chirzo, along with thepotatoes, garlic, thyme and stock. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the flame to asimmer. Cook the soup for 1 hour or more, then add the vinegar and correct the seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve.

Unbelievable

2011-10-31T14:26:00.000-04:00

This is the perfect period of transition for me, for the warmth of summerstill clings precariously in the air while the push into winter works its wayto rid any trace of balminess.

Wait a second in a blink of an eye all has changed.

A nor’easter clipped the northeast dumping snow earlier than I could everremember. The effects were felt as a sizeable layer of frozen precipitationcovered still green grass spreading its frosty tentacles into the south wheretemperatures dipped to the freezing point. Goodbye the last remnants of summer.Up until this third to the last day of October the markets represented a momentof transition with eggplants, tomatoes, corn and okra occupying corners,displaced by myriad beets, full blown cabbages, stiff stalks of Brusselssprouts and apples lined up to the horizon’s line. The corners have been lost.

Yes, I already miss cucumbers, peaches and melons though I know they willreturn next year. Mother Nature’s generosity means that not all will be lostwith this flip of a switch change. Herbs like sage, parsley, sorrel and thymeseem to be handling the deep chill, and my cabbage, beets, kale and carrots areshowing no signs of frost burn. So, clearly I will not be going hungry yet.

The initial lost may provoke anextreme sense of despair, but given time for reflection I know all will return.Pining for my desire absolutely makes their return all the sweeter. So, now Iam spending time hollowing out pumpkins, toasting their seeds and makingpurees, pies, breads and roasts. You know summer has come to its end when theoven is turned on and you welcome the ambient heat.

Whole Roasted Cauliflower - yields 4 to 6 servings

1 head of cauliflower

2-tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pre-heat the oven to 350-degrees.

With a pairing knife make "X's" in the core of the cauliflower, and then using the knife carefully cut out the core -- making sure not to cause the head to fall about.

Place the head of cauliflower on a baking tray, and pour 1/2-cup water onto the tray. Drizzle the oil over the cauliflower and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Place in the oven for 35 to 45 minutes until browned. Serve warm with a squeeze of lemon juice.

Looking Up...looking forward

2011-10-14T15:06:00.002-04:00

Spots of upturned earth

tug of the HarvestMoon

Dividends are stored

Carrot/Apricot Bread –yeilds 9x3 loaf

3-cups flour

1-1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

½-teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼-teaspoon ground mace

1/4-teaspoon ground cardamom

1/8-teaspoon salt

4 whole eggs

1-cup sugar

1-cup canola oil

1-teaspoon pineapple extract

1-teaspoon oragne water

½-teaspoon grated orange zest

2-1/2 cup grated carrots

¾-cups diced dried apricots

Pre-heat the oven to 350-degrees.

Sift the flour, baking soda, bakingpowder, cinnamon, mace, cardamom and salt together.

In a mixing bowl beat the eggs andsugar together until light and fluffy. Then slowing add in the oil, oineappleextract, orange water and orange zest.

Then mix the flour to combine. Thenmix in the carrots and apricots to thoroughly distrbute. Pour into a butteredand floured loaf pan and bake in the oven for 50 to 60 minutes.

Remove from the oven to a wirecooling rack and allow the bread sit for 20 to 30 minutes before turning it outto completley cool. Slice and serve with citrus scented cream cheese.

Citrus Cream Cheese Smear

8-ounces cream cheese

½-teaspoon orange water

½-teaspoon grated lemon zest

1-cup powdered sugar

Beat all the ingredients until wellcombined, and smooth.

It is all an Opportunity

2011-10-11T16:12:00.002-04:00

Of course, we all know theadage, “when life gives you lemons..” that is exactly how I have felt the lastfew days. No, it is not that life has been particularly difficult of late I ammanaging to negotitate the highs and lows of being alive quite well. It is thegarden that has been trying my patience and resolve. The okra has a newtennant, kudzu bugs, whose workings are not too harmful but annoyingnevertheless. And, I am sure there is a chipmunk or field mouse by the dailysigns of someone digging in the garden besides me. Though these are just thedaily conversations to be found out in the yard.

With an impending rainstorm that was to be accompanied by a lowering temperature I thought is wasbest to harvest the glut of chili peppers that were tinted from green to red toyellow before they became too water logged, which would compromise its heatpotential. So, yet another quart of hot sauce is nestled against the back wallof the refrigerator. I also had to bite the bullet and give up on the tomatoes.We planted a total of nine tomato seedlings of different varities; one was lostearly in the season to an undetermined disorder. The others seemed to flourish,growing tall and strong putting out copious quantities of flowers. Frustratingly, in August,when I expected too be over-run by these summer icons – nothing. I was lucky toget one to two a week, and of that fifty percentage of the time an insect hadgotten there first. Working with an eye on the future next year I will plant themin a different spot, perhaps not as sunny and enrich the soil with compost andmature manure, and try again.

Then in mid-September, just as the heat had its edge taken off, a profusion of new flowers then fruit. I prayed; I hoped; I thoughtfinally some tomato good fortunate. For a month I waited for the glow of ripening toshow – a handful of cherry tomatoes ripened and two yellow lemons managed tocome to completion. Now, I find myself with 3-pounds of underripe cherrytomatoes and close to 20-pounds a various green tomatoes. I got my tomato haul,just not the one I was expecting. All is not completely lost for there areplently of recipes utilizing green tomatoes. I indulged myself with fried greentomatoes for dinner, and I am considering a green tomato pie, which is asouthern specialty that I have been curious about. I now have a 2-gallon jar inthe refrigerator crammed with tomatoes pickling away and I stashed the mostdeveloped green ones in a brown paper bag to see if they might mature further. Thosecherry tomatoes are simmering on the stove transforming into a chutney that’sgoing to be jarred becoming unexpected gift from the garden.

Green Cherry Tomato Chutney – yields 8 pints

2-tablespoons canola oil

1-large onion – thinly sliced

3-ounces fresh ginger – peeled andminced

2-ounces fresh turmeric – peeledand minced

1-teaspoon whole fenugreek

1-teaspoon cumin seed

2 to 3 dried red chilies

2-teaspoons kosher salt

4-ounces jaggery (or dark brownsugar)

1-cup golden raisins

3-pounds green cherry tomatoes

½-cup white distilled vinegar

Heat a 8-quart pan over a mediumheat, and add the oil, onion, ginger and turmeric. Cook until the onions aregolden brown then add in the fenugreek, cumin, red chilies and salt. Cook for afew minutes until they release their fragrance.

Then mix in the jaggery,raisins, cherry tomatoes, vinegar and a ½-cup of water. Bring to a boil, andthen reduce the heat to simmer, and cook, covered, for 1 to 2 hours. Stir thechutney occassionally in order not to let it sorch on the bottom.

Store the refrigerator, or can insterlized canning jars for 15 minutes.

What I time I have had!

2011-10-06T18:37:00.001-04:00

I have gone through twofull seasons engaging in this exercise, called gardening. I was an absolutenovice a mere six months ago struggling to keep the palm in the house alive.However, I have learned that trying to grow something in the earth exposed to theelements is actually easier. That is not to say, that the labor in involved isinconsequential or that gnawing, cutting, boring pests that work to thwart thedesired outcome are effortlessly out maneuvered. I have raced out duringwhipping thunder storms to save young corn stalks from being uprooted andmourned the death of cauliflower due to an obliterating infestation of blackfleas. I have successfully nursed my loveage, sorrel and chamomile through thewilting heat of summer to watch them reclaim their productive lives in the pastfew weeks.

Since the autumnal equinoxthe sun is positioned in a less aggressive position for those plants that cantolerate a life without air conditioning. I have crunched on plum radishes,candy-stripped beets, and I awaited the broccoli both common and Romanesque aswell another attempt at cauliflower. We have built up the topsoil deep enoughthat a crop of carrots have actually taken hold. I feel good about gettingthrough this final push of dirt. I am most proud of the achievements and how wehave managed to live off the generosity of our modest plot.

I am buoyed by theresponse I have received for next year’s plantings. I already have started mylist of things I want to try to grow: sesame, fenugreek, water radish, cumin,shiso, garlic, and if I win, start raising chickens. Of course, this isaddition to all that was grown this year and come February the dining room willbe lined with a hefty, plastic bag and become home to seeds that have beencollected, and with fingers crossed will sprout.

Pork Meatballs – yields about 16

¼-cup amaranth

2-tablespoons loveage – chopped

1-tablespoon Italian parsley leaves– chopped

1 medium carrot – grated

1-small onion – finely minced

3-garlic cloves – finely minced

1-poblano pepper – seeds discarded;then finely minced

1-1/4 pound ground pork

Salt and freshly ground blackpepper to taste

¼-cup white wine

Place the amaranth in a small workbowl and cover the hot water. Let the amaranth sit for an hour. Then drain.

In a large work bowl mix all theingredients, except the white wine, together in order to distribute everythingwell. Form into 16 meatballs, approximately the size of a golf ball. Refrigeratethe meatballs for 30 to 60 minutes.

Heat a 10-inch saute pan over ahigh heat, and brown the meatballs. You will want to do this in two batches.

Once the second half of the meatballs are browned add all the meatballs to thepan, and pour in wine. Reduce the heat to lower, and cover the pan.

Cook for 15to 20 minutes. Serve immediately over wilted greens.

Seasonal Wheel

2011-09-29T07:50:00.001-04:00

Mother Nature isdramaticlly letting us know it is a time of change. Once verdant canopies areturning an array of reds, oranges, yellows and brown that is just breathtaking.Unlike the spring season with its continuous tender, green sprouting, budding, andflowering flowing into the fruiting season we are witnessing exhaustion. Myvining plants are showing signs of the wear and tear as their leaves arebrowned and shriveled; late settling fruits hang on seemingly suspended, and the bees are searching for a new source.

All is not so desparate for in her grace a new crop ofsubterrain heartiness is developing -- vegetables that don’t mind thedecreasing light and cooling days. And, the green, leafy vegetables likebroccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, sorrel and lettuce that wilted and pooped-outduring the dog days are up and running mad, renewed by this change. Thankgoodness for radishes, those fast maturing tubers give a blush of color as mypalate turns to the hues of green, and brunt umber. While I will miss theoverwhelming output of the cucumbers and the eight different herbs options toseason the night’s meal I am already relishing in the turn of the wheel.

Brussels SproutsSlaw – yeilds 6 to 8 servings

1-1/2-pounds Brusselssprouts

1 fennel bulb

½-pound kolrahbi –peeled

4-scallions – verythinly sliced

¼-cup chopped loveage(or the inner stalk of celery)

¼-cup chopped Italianparsley

1-bunch watercress

½-cup toasted pumpkinseeds

½-cup white winevinegar

2-tablespoons Dijonmustard

½-cup olive oil

Salt and freshly groundpepper to taste

Wash the Brusselssprouts and then peel one or two outer leaves, and trim the base.

Shred the Brusselssprouts, fennel, and kolrahbi. Place them in a large work bowl along with allthe other ingredients. Toss every well to disperse all the flavors. Refrigeratefor 4 hours to overnight before serving.

Dear old new friend

2011-09-22T19:02:00.001-04:00

Ever since last spring Ihave been dedicated to three new but old pans. Last winter a cousin passed on,after a long-lived life and assisting in cleaning out the house I salvaged fromthe trash heap a trio of well-seasoned, family worked cast iron pans. My cousinand their family lived in the same house for the about 60 years, and I can onlyimagine how old the skillet, dutch oven and grill pan were. They are atestament to fact that cast iron, for me, are heirlooms to be cherished andpassed along. They are so well seasoned, with a layer of carbon so set that Ifear not it rusting, though I still never use more then a soft sponge andalways dry it over a flame for there would be no greater loss than those yearsof dutifully preparing the family meals that are deeply enbedded within.

My cousin who onced ownedthese pans was one of the first foodie I had ever known. I remember back when Iwas in my late teens she came into New York from Atlanta for a culinary run. Iwas a bureougning foodie myself, and spent the day running around Manhattanwith her on the hunt. I totally recall a small, floor to ceiling crammed storedin Chinatown where she was told a dragon and butterfly cookie-cutter could befound. In cleaning out the kitchen I was hoping to come across those detailed,delicate cutters perhaps her daughter found them and took them home with her. Acookbook collection spanned 5 decades and was rife with local self-published“Junior League” style contibutions that represents the anthropologicaldevelopment of the area and time – I scooped those up; even though I know I wasnever going to make a 7-up Cake or CocaCola Chicken.

I would never have thought that I would have ended up a chef,a hoarder of pre-loved rolling pins, apothecary jars and cast iron skillets.The history of food and cooking inspires, informs and releases me to create forfuture accumulators of the past.

Sautéed Radish,Turnip and Beets – yeilds 4 servings

2-shallots – thinlysliced

2-tablespoons olive oil

6 baby Japanese turnips- halved

4 radishes - halved

3 baby beets(preferably golden or candy stripped) - halved

2-garlic cloves –thinly sliced

¼-cup basil leaves

Salt and freshly groundpepper to taste

Heat an eight-inch castiron skillet over a high heat, then add the shallots and olive oil. Cook theshallots until golden brown, then mix in the turnips, radishes, beets andgarlic.

Sauté the vegeables for about 5 minutes, until just tender thenlower the heat, and mix in the basil, salt and pepper.

Serve warm.

Into the transition

2011-09-16T12:01:00.000-04:00

A full moon signals

A sun rising a tad lower

Good-bye cucumbers

Quick Cucumber Pickle
1 pound Kirby cucumber – about 3 to 4 inches in length
1/2 pound mild onions (such as Vadillia)
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1/2 cup white distilled vinegar
1 cup water

In a clean 2 quart glass jar mix all the ingredients together to thoroughly combine. Secure a tight fitting lid onto the jar, and refrigerate for 5 days before serving.

Never will say good-bye

2011-08-31T16:29:00.000-04:00

I am just amazed that it is the end of August, and Labor Day weekend is upon us. It seems it was a mere few weeks ago that we rented that roto tiller to get the new garden prepped. I fretted that laborous weekend that the plants that were being planted was in no way going to be enough to supply us with an adequate supply of food. Clearly, the novice in me had no idea what to expect. I had no idea how aggressive cucumbers would be or the continuous crowning of okra. Yes, there have been disappointments along the way; cauliflower that was an early casualty and a few plants that dogs trampled as they learned the garden was off limits. Now, almost four months along I have not bought more then onions, garlic and potatoes from the farmer’s market, well of course that is not including proteins but I am politicing for chickens.

Happily my garden is not finished. Surprisingly the watermelon has set yet another fruit leaving a tally of eight watermelons in various stages of readiness, which is quite exciting after the less than stellar start I had with this particular fruit. That first one I was so sure was ready turened out to be white and bland. I can report am I now successfully recognizing when to snip it from the vine. The cucumbers are winding down, no longer yeilding six to eight engorger fruits a day – I am sure come January I will long for my daily excess. And of course, the autumn plantings that have been started – another go at cauliflower as well as broccoli, carrots, beets and Romansque Broccoli along with Tuscan kale, arugula and Rossa lettuce will hopefully be on my plate in the months to come.

Preparations have been being made for the long, dark days that are ahead of us when prehaps just the kale and cabbage may be able to survive dull,chill of the winter. I have put up vinegar, aromatic salts and sugars, pickles of various kinds from peaches to jalapenos, and there is a freezer filling up with freshly harvested, peaking okra, black-eyed peas, tomatoes and corn kernels. I think I have enough chili sauce in storage to keep me sweating through the winter,

although I know my plants have not yet completed their production so I am confident that I can get at least another quart put away.

Saying goodbye to summer for me only means the beginning of the jacket wearing season but not saying goodbye to the foods of the season.

Watermelon Gazpacho with Feta – serves 8 to 10
3-cups chopped watermelon – seeds discarded
1/2-pound cucumbers – peeled and diced
1-red onion – minced
2-beefsteak tomatoes – seeds discard and then diced
4-scallions – minced
1-jalapeno – minced (seeds discarded to lower heat)
¼-cup chopped basil leaves
½-cup chopped mint leaves
1/4-cup fresh lime juice
½-cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4-pound feta cheese – diced

Diced the watermelon taking great care to discard the seeds. Pour any juice through a sieve to catch the seeds and let the juice drain into a large bowl. Place all the ingredients into the bowl and mix to thoroughly combine. Chill well. Serve in bowls garnished with some diced feta cheese.

Say Yes to the Dish

2011-08-24T19:54:00.000-04:00

I definitely live by the culinary credo, if I have not had it I must try it.

I take this maxim with me every time I go to the farmer’s market, specialty food store, and especially when I am traveling.

There have been some funky foods I have consumed on some of my journeys. The fish gonads in Tokyo gave a bit of a shiver; chili and calamansi lime drenched fried pig ear in the Philippines was definitely ear, and then there was the cumin laced roasted cuy (guinea pig) that I met alive in the kitchen and then, an hour later had it sitting in front of me. I think this was the most difficult thing to get down for as an American I kept seeing its habitat with exercise wheel, now vacant. I ate it,for with enough hot sauce I can get anything down plus there is nothing more rude then refusing food a people prepare for you. That is how I felt when in Provence I went to the market loaded up on almonds, peaches, lavender, summer savory and a rabbit, head still attached. My friends that I was renting a house with were aghast, and talked of going out to dinner. I slinked into the garage with a cutting board and knife, and rendered the rabbit a more “American” market prefect. They loved the civet I made that night but I was not in love with their provincial attitude.

Heading to a farmer’s market tends to offer a slightly less exotic selection and definitely without the cringe factor. Though it does offer mysteries to be solved and the courage to take them on regardless of my security about a guaranteed outcome. Sometimes it is as simple of finding a new herb like shiso or Mexican mint, which is straightforward – like the scents then try it. The first husk tomato I peeled and popped in my mouth immediately let me know I had just met a new best friend but then I had to start playing with it. I made a rose scented jam, white chocolate breading pudding and finally, I dared, to more it to the savory side of the kitchen with a highly successful corn salad. Remember living when I lived in Sydney and would go to Paddy’s Market on a weekly hunt. It is there that I first bought and used breadfruit, and lotus seeds as well as very Asian green that market offered. There was a terrific farmer who would only sell me my week’s choice if I was able to name it and gave him a cooking idea. I learned very choy he sold, and excited with the idea of having to come up with a recipe on the spot. Just recently, I added sweet potato leaves to the myriad greens that find its self being wilted in my wok – it was a terrific revelation to find out that they were edible, and yummy.

All these experiences has made me fearless when it comes to meeting new things – some I will like; some I will reject, and others, will become oft called upon members of my repertoire. It is only through saying yes, have I been able to build a culinary palate that gives no tip to my own cultural heritage and has allowed me to find pleasure in a bowl of freshly made tofu drizzled with sweet syrup to fumy slabs of baby backs to a gently tossed bouquet of herbs, edible flowers and nascent greens.

Lavender scented Braised Rabbit – serves 4 to 6
2 rabbits – cut into quarters
1/2-cup all-purpose flour
Pinch of cayenne pepper
2-tablespoons olive oil
3 shallots - diced
2 stalks celery – diced
2-teaspoons lavender - gently rubbed
1/4-teaspoon fennel seeds
1-cup rosé wine
1/2-cup crème fraiche
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Mix the flour with the cayenne pepper, salt and pepper. Dredge the rabbit pieces in the seasoned flour, and then shake off the excess.

Heat a 10-inch skillet over a high heat, and add the oil. Brown the rabbit pieces in the pan in two to three batches. Remove the rabbit from the pan. Then into the pan add the onions and celery cooking until translucent, adding an additional tablespoon of oil if necessary.

Return the rabbit pieces back to the pan and add the lavender, fennel seeds and wine. Bring to a boil, and then reduce the flame to a simmer. Cook the rabbit, covered with a lid slightly askew, for 35 to 45 minutes. Swirl in the crème fraiche, salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

A mid-summer dream

2011-08-17T15:33:00.000-04:00

Summer finds its peak
Swollen cucumbers, tomatoes, melons
I feast; I save seeds
Stores of potential
Everything cycles

Roasted Pepper and Heart of Palm Salad – yields 6 to 8 servings
1 can heart of palm – drained and rinsed; cut into 1/2 inch rounds
1 red pepper – roasted; peeled and seeded
1 yellow pepper - roasted; peeled and seeded
1 small red onion – sliced a thin julienne
1 medium sized tomato – thinly sliced
1 cucumber (peeled if waxed) – slice into thin rounds
1/4 cup Italian parsley leaves – chopped
2-tablespoons chopped oregano leaves

1/4-cup fresh lemon juice
1/4-cup white wine vinegar
1/3-cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
2 ripe avocadoes – sliced for garnish (drizzle with lemon juice to prevent browning)

Gently toss all ingredients together, except for the avocado, in a large bowl to coat the vegetables. Lay the vegetables onto a platter and garnish the salad with slices of avocado.

small moments of joy

2011-08-05T16:31:00.000-04:00

There are a few items that show up during the summer months that send me into a possibility frenzy, which subsequently translates into an eating fit. Up there on that list are any tomatoes picked from the vine and brought directly to me. Green gage plums are just ridiculously fabulous and hark back to those Victorian botanical illustrations I love to collect. Of course, the succulent, stupidly saccharine cherry needs to do nothing but show up. There are blushes of aromatics that send my olfactory system to places that is usually relegated to the conjuring of a romance novelist. These months of luscious, redolent marvels charges my creative juices and even though the temperature on the sidewalk is hot enough to fry an egg on certain days, I am psyched to get down and sweaty. Ok, in the spirit of full disclosure I will turn the air conditioner on.

One of nature’s true edible astonishments is the husk tomato also referred to as the ground cherry or cape berry. I don’t care what name it goes by as long as it finds itself in my mouth. Covered in a papery skin, similar to its cousin the tomatillo they also share meaty, dense interior but that is where any familial resemblance ends. The husk tomato is large pea sized fruit that when ripe is hued a sun baked golden-orange, and its mouth…there is a reminiscent sweet pineapple up front flavor with a young goat cheese back. Its culinary versatility has taken it from a corn and chili salad to a blueberry and white chocolate bread pudding to a rose kissed compote. I have even laid them out on a screen and allowed them to raisin for a winter hit.

Last week I bit to a long desired summer seductress, the fig.

When living in the northeast I just flat out refused to eat any fig in the tri-state area. The climate in the New York area cannot support a fig crop, and any of the warmer states that delivered to Gotham did not need to stop at my place. They are so fragile that carrying from the tree is precarious. In order to get these magical fruits across the country they must be harvested unripe, which just won’t do for they fail to continue ripening after they have been plucked from there limbs. Visit a fig tree and you will quickly become aware you are not they only visitor – swarms of bees, yellow jackets and wasps are already keen to potion contained within that wisp thin, leathery skin. I have not been in California, during the summer, for a few years now and it has been too long since I have gotten that buzz from biting into the ancient summer siren. A couple months ago when I was in South Carolina at a friend’s house, and I spied a healthy, lofty familiar tree I was ecstatic learning they survive the gentle frosts of the zone 7 I am living in. And, so the wait began. Well, the wait is over, and pinked, fleshy fruits joyfully have come home with me.

As a kid I marked summer’s days listening to the beatings of the cicadas intrigued by the mysterious sound. Now, that summer soundtrack is the hum of desire and creative passion.

Husk Tomato and Fig Cake – 9-inch cake
2-cups flour
1-teaspoon baking soda
1-teaspoon baking powder
1/2-teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups sugar
3-eggs
1-cup low-fat vanilla yogurt
1-cup whole husk tomatoes
1-1/4 cup chopped macadamia nuts
12 figs – cut in half

Preheat oven to 350-degrees.

Grease and flour a 9-inch cake pan.

In a large work bowl sift together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt. The mix in the husk tomatoes making sure they are distributed and coasted in the flour.

With a whisk beat the sugar, eggs, and yogurt together until very smooth.

Then mix in the flour mixture, and macadamia nuts.

Pour the batter into the cake pan, and float the figs along the outer parameter the pan, and then a smaller circle in the middle of the cake.

Place in the oven and bake for about an hour, or until a cake tester inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.

Cool completely before un-molding.

A new day...another day

2011-08-03T12:42:00.000-04:00

It has been an atypical summer for me. No swimming through the city gagging on the burning, evaporating dog urine that most of year secretly coats the sidewalks. I have not gone to the beach, and yet I am bronzed though this time with a farmer’s tan. I cool off by taking the garden hose and dousing myself then get back to work. Of course, there is a minimum of three showers a day – two of them usually cold, and the tub pools with browned, gritty water. The only remnant of my morning routine I recognize is the putting up of my coffee water before I step into the first shower of the day.

For the past 10 plus years I would hurriedly gulp down my morning jolt and make a bee-line for the farmer’s market wanting to be the first to reject anything. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday were my marketing days scrambling home with canvass bags brimming with the bounty of some else’s efforts. Now, seven mornings a week I can be found by 7am in the garden, coffee in one hand, hose set on shower in the other. Yes, I could more easily program the sprinkler head to oscillate letting water cascade hither and thither freeing me to check emails and the news to make sure the world has not imploded overnight. Well, I have my new priorities this season, and damn the world my plants need me more! The lavender should not get watered less I lose another to excessive moisture. However, the adjacent herbs adore being fed and the Vietnamese cilantro prefers a damp environment. The watermelon needs a good soaking, as fruits are still setting up; the poor suffering sorrel is being kept on life support until the cooler weather sets in and it can flourish once again. All the capsicum plants are in constant need and not all same needs. And, lets not forget how the tomatoes need to have their leaves washed daily (keeps the aphids down) but does not want a drenching drink (will cause the tomatoes to crack). Then I need to baby sit the radish, beets and broccoli seeds that I am sowing for an autumnal harvesting those seedlings need to be kept moist during these 90-degree days. So, you see the sprinkler is just not smart and sensitive enough to care for this eclectic assemblage of summer. You would agree, that perhaps next year I could do a better job of placement but if no one needs me…..

Gazpacho – yields 8 to 10 servings
6-cups chopped ripe tomatoes
1-jalapeno

(seeds discarded to lower its intensity)
1 lime - juiced
1/4-pound cucumber – diced
1 small red onion – finely diced
1 red pepper – seeds discarded; then diced
1/4-cup Thai basil leaves (or common) - chopped
1/4-cup Vietnamese cilantro leaves (or mint) – chopped
1/4-cup extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon – juiced (approx. 1/4-cup)
Salt to taste

In a blender place the tomatoes, jalapeno and limejuice. Process until everything is broken-down and very smooth.

Pour in a large bowl or 1-gallon glass jar and add the remaining ingredients. Place about 8 ice cubes into the gazpacho and mix everything to combine. Refrigerate at least an hour before serving.

...the spice of life

2011-07-28T21:33:00.001-04:00

Variety has been a luxury I have been blessed with for the majority of my culinary life. That which I could dream of having I have been able to access. That which I could not even think of dreaming of has been available for me to experience. Like a kid in the candy store my eyes go wide and glaze over when I see a farmer’s market filled with fruits and vegetables I have yet to access. I proceed to buy everything and anything I have never had before – why choice the beefsteak tomato when a plethora of heirloom varieties are being produced.

If I need mint and there is lemon balm or chocolate mint my choice is clear, both.

Adding an array of foods and textures into your diet is the best way to have fun in the kitchen. I also become obsessive with a genre of foods and try to find very possible incarnation Mother Nature have created. Why eat only smooth, shinny, skinned zucchini when there are bumpy yellow, crooked necked, scalloped, ribbed all with slightly different mouth feels and unique moments in the kitchen.

I am passionate about spicy foods, and chili peppers to be more exact. This year I have jalapeno, habanero, scotch bonnet and banana yellow in the garden. Along with the gentle poblano and sweet bell – life requires balance. Come next year I will definitely up the ante, now that I know their behaviors a bit better and will have to add Thai, cascabel, shishito and pardon to name a few. Then there are chocolate habanero, Anaheim, Hawaiian, and paprika that call to me. Perhaps I have a chili farm in my future, or I just need to establish a chili only plot in the yard. For now, I am happy and excited with the progress of the six different peppers that are well entrenched this year.

Just be warned once they start going you will be on fire be prepared to squirrel some away for when the cool of the autumn solstice curtails their output.

Jalapeno Sauce – yields approx 2 quarts
1-cup cider vinegar
1-head garlic – peeled and roughly chopped
21-jalapeno – roughly chopped
2-green bell peppers – seeds discarded; then roughly chopped
1/2-cup Texas tarragon
1/2-cup packed basil leaves
1/4-cup oregano leaves
1/4-cup kosher salt

Place the vinegar, garlic, jalapeno and bell peppers in a blender, and process until smooth. Then add in the Texas tarragon, bail, oregano and salt. Continue to blend until smooth and thoroughly combined.

Store in a sterilized glass jar in the refrigerator for a minimum of one month before using.

The heat is on

2011-07-23T22:15:00.001-04:00

As much of the nation sweats under warming of summer’s down comforter dungarees adhere to the legs of its wearer; perspiration runs from sideburns moistening our collars; children holler as they dash in and out of oscillating sprinkler heads thrilled by the relief. Ah, the hallmarks of the dog days of summer. The birds that have regularly visited the feeder at all hours of the day – from tweeting first light to last – have concentrated their skittish visits to the fringe hours.

I have even accepted the switching on of the air conditioner by mid-afternoon, which I otherwise try to keep off because in reality I need a de-humidifier because I only complain about the cold.

Not all things are suffering from the wilting exposure rather they are thriving and reveling in this intensity. My jalapeno do not seem to be happier, sending out flowers and the fruits that have spent time dangling from their branches seem grow in front of my eyes. For me the glee is trapped within – with their increasing potency. A few weeks ago they were more like bonsai bell peppers but as of today, I can feel the burn. Not everything that is responding to is matching its heat intensity. Mother Nature is also offering moments that are prefect coolants. There are watermelons galore swelling and crowding out anything that is in its way. Clearly, the hotter and sunny it is the more watermelon take-up residence in the garden. The basil is growing tall and bushy, and is requiring a daily deadheading in order not to start seed collecting too early. I have had to take to offering gifts if basil bouquets to anyone who shows to least amount of interest. I have learned a thing or two about cucumbers as well this year. Never be taken in by its innocence as a seedling. It trellises out and about bowling over anything in it way creating a carpet of broad pointed leaves hiding quickly enlarging fruits. And, prolific is an understatement for my batch.

Given me about two good rains a week to help replenish the well, otherwise let it shine.

Cucumber Granita – yields approx. 1-1/2 quarts
3-pound cucumber – peeled and seeds discarded
1-cup raw, organic sugar
1/4-cup fresh lemon juice
1/4-cup lemon balm leaves

Roughly chop the cucumbers.

In a 1-quart saucepan place the cucumbers, sugar and one-cup of water,

and bring to the boil. Shut off the heat and allow it to cool.

Place the cucumber mixture, lemon juice and lemon balm into a blender. Process until completely smooth.

Transfer the cucumber mixture into a 9x9 pyrex pan and place in the freezer. After about 2 hours remove from the freezer and scrape the mixture with a fork, loosening the frozen edges and mixing with the more liquid center.

Continue the process over an 8 hour period.
Serve scraping the granita into individual glasses.

Another Garden Report

2011-07-20T19:47:00.000-04:00

I am three months into this journey that is simply a backyard garden for most. For me, it has turned into an obsession. After thirty years of living on concrete set turf the wonder of watching a seed take flight has been awe inspiring, and at times disappointing. Overall, it has been a lesson in nature and a humbling acquiesce to my position on this earth, and what I can and cannot control. Thunderous storms with whipping winds have rendered me helpless as I watched the nascent corn and sunflower tenuously heave and release – producing cries of horror from me and a parental need to shelter and protect. I mounded loam to re-enforce their anchorage to Mother Earth and prayed I did my best to ground them through the turbulence.

I could not be prouder of their determination and fortitude for they now tower over the garden resplendent in their maturity. The eggplant has struggled, so valiant in its commitment to get a foothold in this garden, perhaps due to the dense soil or a nitrogen deficiency of our plot, or even possibly the 12-hours of exposure it endures. After one burst of production last month, and the harvesting of a single Japanese eggplant I can count on at least five more in the coming days, and twice that in blooming stages.

The peppers from the sweet to mild to the incendiary are dangling jewels still blushed verdant but if we choose will be allowed to redden. Cabbage, cucumber, lemon grass, Mexican Mint, pineapple sage and basil are virtually carefree growths. I am most amazed how three miniscule cucumber seedlings have taken over and threaten to mow oever anything and everything in its way – I am continually training the vines around other plantings, though I will soon be at a loss as to where to send them.

As the season evolves so does my dishes as does my admiration. While I am living in my garden in the moment embracing the unfolding daily joy, I am also looking ahead. Jars of pickled green tomatoes, cucumbers and jalapenos support the back wall of the refrigerator. Lavender buds

and Mexican Mint blooms desiccate in sugar and salt. Bottles of wine, packed with woody herb stems, quietly convert to vinegar. Soon freezer bags with cut okra, niblets of corn and perfectly ripe tomatoes will take up winter residence.

Never to forget this summer of ’11 and oh, how I cannot wait to gain on the knowledge garnered today for tomorrow’s garden.

Herbed Vinegar - yields approx. 1-liter

leaves and stems of sage, thyme, oregano
2-750 ml red wine
1/2-cup raw apple cider vinegar

Stuff the herbs into a clean glass jar that is at least 3-quarts large. Pour over the wine and vinegar and secure a piece of cloth of the mouth of the jar.

Let the vinegar sit in a cool, not sunny spot for 3 months. Strain the vinegar and store in a clear jar with a tight fitting lid.

Summer's Toying

2011-07-16T10:05:00.001-04:00

Amazing how a quick a person can get spoiled in just the mere clicking of a month. I am up in New York bopping around, and course, visiting the farmer’s market. I was hoping to catch the tail end of the cherry harvest but alas, this year it was a brief and underwhelming season as reported to me by one of my favorite sources for the first of summer’s stone fruits. Sad for the denizens of the northeast who usually get some intense, juicy cherries, however, I was secretly pleased because I missed nothing.

Quickly on the heels of cherries along will come peaches and plums, and then finally, the last member of the stone fruits -- apricots. In the market here I have been stuffing my face with sugar and shiro plums but I had to pass on the peaches. Having been in the south for much of the summer I have been eating redolent, luscious icons of summer for a while now, and these Yankee -raised cousins are shy and demure – nothing I want in a peach. When I was in Provence, and strolled through the village markets, the peaches sent out an aromatic siren’s call tempting all to its readiness. That trip set a standard that I refuse to compromise. If my eyes were not wandering from table to table surveying the haul of the week, I would have never known the peach had arrived back here in the canyons of New York. Silence is not something I expect or desire in this fruit. I’d say these northern family members need a few more weeks of heat, sun and branch time before this sensitive nose may catch a whiff of its vitality.

Peach-Lavender Cake – yields 9” cake
1-pound ripe peaches – cut into 1/2” slices
1-1/2 cups vanilla low-fat yogurt
4-eggs
1/4-pound unsalted butter – melted
1-teapoon vanilla extract
1/2-cup sugar
1-1/2 teaspoons lavender buds
2-cups all-purpose flour
1/2-teaspoon baking soda
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/8-teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 350-degrees.

Lightly butter the 9-inch cake pan, and distribute the sliced peaches on the bottom.

With a whisk, beat together the yogurt, eggs, butter,

vanilla,sugar and vanilla to thoroughly mix.

Sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

Using a spatula mix the flour into the yogurt mixture to just combined. Pour the batter over the peaches and bake for 35 to 40 minutes.

Let the cake cool completely, and then turn it out with the peaches on top.

OOOppps....Dang it!

2011-07-08T13:12:00.002-04:00

So, I took the plunge and snipped the watermelon that has been tormenting for the past three weeks free. I weighed it on the bathroom scale and it came in at exactly 5-pounds even. Sounds good so far – then I cut it open and it was white. Not yellow, orange or red! There was a suspicion of blush around a seed pocket. Thinking maybe it was an albino mutation I was sure I planted a crimson meat sugar baby variety – the size, shape and weight confirmed my expectations for the variety. Then with a bite it clear I jumped the gun it was not sweet. It was under-ripe. I need to find out how judge the ripeness of the fruit for we have others in various states of development. I thought I know how to determine a watermelon’s readiness but clearly I don’t.

It was hollow to the knock, had a good heft and a well formed spot for where it sat on the ground. I am now so curious to find out how long I need to let these thirst-quencher sit and wait.

Life is about making lemonade so all for me was not lost. The watermelon was not inedible just disappointing. I could not waste this long awaited harvest I pureed the prematurely gift from the garden along with lemon cucumbers, basil and lemon verbena. A bit of limejuice and a hint of sugar and we sipped on a rather refreshing afternoon tonic – and one I hope never to make again. I much would prefer to have engaged in a seed-spitting contest.